REI Community
Utopia Ledges (True Summit Ledges)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beeker T 
Bumble Bee T 
Dystonia T 
Freedonia T 
Hannah Flower T 
Jack Knife  T 
Jack O'Lantern T 
Jesus Nut T 
Lost in Utopia T 
Makamah Road T 
Maze T 
Ora the Explorer  T 
Rumney Rocks Climb T 
Skywalker T 
Smashing Pumpkins T 
Stones , The T 

Makamah Road 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a R [details]
FA: Bradley White, 2006
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: bradley white on Oct 16, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Right is the summit buttresses and not seen is 'Ma...

Description 

I rappelled down from a oak tree to get to the climb.
I start up the wide open clean green weak flaked slab, It was easily climbed 30ft up right to better quality rock next to the wet head wall. Went up the overlap above the slab. Big exposure crux getting onto the overlap. Choice rock corner to top and liked the summit exposure over the slab. Its spooky with the abyss below. Cool moves go right to the bulge where the corner ends. After bulge easy exit or harder ones. For maximum exposure right I did the crack to the summit mound. The summit is a mound or two higher.
This climb was okay but became a bomb.

The oak trees died. Anchoring for rappel would be on gear and a little of it below where it tops off. This is a false summit top, not easy too locate.

Second ascent At the bottom there's a few options to the start and I went up the white quartz outcrop to a very dirty cracked corner. Then clean slabs for a while to the second pitch with no belay cracks.

Getting there its a dirt bomb to a climb directly above Jimmy Cliff Slab in the woods in the middle of the long rock band. This 30+ foot band must be climbed by one of its severe 4th class, dangerous creature features. Your choice which one. They are all nasty rock and trees to small or fully supporting body weight trees. Was hard to tell the trees apart until I pulled up on one.
Lots of ticks and their in the thickest underbrush above this band. Its like the jungle up there I should of had a machete. Carrying a long rope way the up here would be outrageously stupid weight. Maybe its got fifty feet of good rock to climb.

Location 

One mound down from the southwestern side of the summit. Look for the mound that has a steep drop off side to it that has a crack on the west central top of side of it. Down hill east from there were three or four oak trees. They looked dead the last time I saw them. Figure out a way down. No anchors at the start on a big ledge below the slab start.

Protection 

Not much trustable pro on the green slab I remember some big stuff for the overlap and medium to medium small stuff for the finish was available. I went with some shoes and a harness. Started a little lower than the end of a 60m rope halved for rappel. It's a fixer upper if it's ever going to have belay anchor starting protection.


Photos of Makamah Road Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Estimated where the lower half of the line should ...
BETA PHOTO: Estimated where the lower half of the line should ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Makamah Road is the central slab to corner and the...
BETA PHOTO: Makamah Road is the central slab to corner and the...

Comments on Makamah Road Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About