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Maine Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 45.1511, -69.1699 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 383,121
Administrators: Ladd, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ladd on Apr 20, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

Climbing in Maine is all over the place! Katahdin, Shagg Crag, Acadia National Park, Nubble Lighthouse and many other areas exist in this little visited climbing locale.

The climbing is on all different types of rock, and there are endless possibilities at areas such as Acadia National Park (routes are plentiful and developed, but bouldering potential is endless) and at Katahdin (if you are willing to hike in for the ice/rock or even bouldering with your gear).

Anyone for a swamp donkey?

Rock Climbing Photo: JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond.  Above c...
JD the Moose hanging out at Chimney pond. Above can been seen the Armadillo and Flatiron routes.

Getting There 

Take I-95, keep going north until you hit Maine.

Map Here

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

748 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',117],['3 Stars',292],['2 Stars',203],['1 Star',74],['Bomb',5]
['<=5.6',83],['5.7',71],['5.8',51],['5.9',77],['5.10',96],['5.11',82],['5.12',53],['5.13',16],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',57],['V2-3',26],['V4-5',35],['V6-7',25],['V8-9',14],['V10-11',5],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Maine

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Maine:
Wafer Step -(Central Slab)   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
The Great Chimney   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     TR, 60'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Story of O   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 250'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Gunklandia   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
The Armadillo   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Grade IV   Katahdin : Chimney Pond ("South") Basi...
The Flake   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Old Town   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Bartleby -(Central Slab)   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Rock Lobster   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 95'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Wonder Wall   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     TR, 50'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab)   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 50'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Green Mt. Breakdown   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 125'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Chitlin's Corner   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 170'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
A Dare by the Sea   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Acadia National Park : Otter Cliffs
The Great Escape   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Connecticut Cracks   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 70'   Acadia National Park : The Precipice aka The South...
Shaggin Wagon   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport   Shagg Crag
Ginseng Route   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   Shagg Crag
Shagg It    5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Shagg Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Maine

Featured Route For Maine
Rock Climbing Photo: the test photo

test route 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0+ 4+ WI2+ M2+ C1- R  Maine : Bangor Area Buildering : ... : test sub area to contain ro...
This is a test route....[more]   Browse More Classics in Maine

Photos of Maine Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Logging truck and cloud cap over Mt. Katahdin
Logging truck and cloud cap over Mt. Katahdin
Rock Climbing Photo: Coastal Maine
Coastal Maine
Rock Climbing Photo: Russell Pond, BSP
Russell Pond, BSP
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Pamola from near summit of Baxter
View of Pamola from near summit of Baxter
Rock Climbing Photo: Maine
Maine

Comments on Maine Add Comment
Show which comments
By justo
From: slc
Apr 23, 2009
Maine rocks!
By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Aug 26, 2013
Maine has maybe the best sport climbing in New England after Rumney, maybe even the potential for the best, with all the hidden steep schist crags. The locals are just a little quiet about it. Know what I am saying, eh :)

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