Leading up the chimney on pitch 2.
This is the large east facing wall of Coconino Sandstone right of the Bear Gun Spire. Routes vary from 1 to 5 pitches in length. Numerous anchors can be found on the wall left of the Bear Gun - reference Tim Toula's "Cheaper Way to Die". The routes on the Main Wall right of the Spire are referenced in Bloom's "Castles in the Sand."
Park in the Encinoso Picnic Area. Hike 15-20 minutes up the Wilson Mt. North Trail. When it starts to curve left (south) drop into the largest drainage to your right and start heading up west. Bushwhacking required.
Climbing Season For the Oak Creek Canyon area.
Weather station 3.0 miles from here
1 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Main Wall
Brokeback Mountain 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Arizona
: Northern Arizona
: ... : Main Wall
A proud climb on Coconino Sandstone up an imposing dihedral way back in a side canyon of Oak Creek. Four pitches of physical, mostly wide climbing with good protection. Pitch 1: Climbing the long corner system. Hands to squeeze chimney. 5.10+ (150 Ft.)Pitch 2: Climb your way up a chimney stem box to a roof capped by an imposing table size plate. Pull the roof on the right, clip a bolt, and do a short fingers layback to the anchor. 5.11 (120 Ft.)Pitch 3: Climb up to a left facing ringlock corne...[more] Browse More Classics in Arizona