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Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angel Baby S 
Bitchy Bitch S 
Connective Tissue S 
Knife, The S 
Post Op S 
Pre Op S 
Pussy Pie S 
Rehab S 
Slippin' Sloan S 
Smells Like Pussy S 
Smells Like Victory S 
Smirkin' Smith S 
Surgery Buttress S 

Main Wall Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Dec 17, 2014
This Afternoon

85° | 51°

83° | 49°

83° | 48°

84° | 48°

86° | 49°

86° | 49°
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The Main Wall is a decent limestone crag that features mostly shorter routes on vertical rock with grades from 5.9 to 5.12a. The limestone here is some of the best you'll find in Glenwood Canyon. It gets excellent winter sun (noon until sunset).

Getting There 

Park at the Bair Ranch rest stop (exit 129) just east of Glenwood Springs. Cross under the highway to the north side and locate an obvious concrete water culvert. Walk around a barbed wire fence via the left edge of the culvert, then head up along the left side of the drainage and over a second barbed wire fence.

From here follow a good climbers' trail up to the right end of the cliffs, and traverse west (left) along a catwalk-like ledge system all the way to the SW end of the cliffs. After rounding the southwest corner of the formation and passing the Sex Cave you'll see the Main Wall of the Surgery Buttress. A short scramble underneath the right side of the wall leads to a good belay ledge below the routes.

Approach time: 10-20 minutes.

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.6 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
Slippin' Sloan   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Pre Op   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Pre Op climbs the open book dihedral in the middle...

Pre Op 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Colorado : Glenwood Springs : ... : Main Wall
This is the second route you come to around the corner; it takes a vague line right of a right-facing corner. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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