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Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cat from Outer Space S,TR 
Crack'n the Code T 
Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) T 
Freedom Fighter S 
Frogs in Space T,S 
Gotta Keep Dancin T 
Jeopardy T 
Laus Deo S 
LGK T 
Lord of the Dance T 
Pinhead T,S 
Raindown S,TR 
Ray Auld Memorial Route T 
Springboard T 
Sunshine on a Dark Day T 
Touching the sky S 
Undercover T 
Zig Zag T 

Main Wall Rock Climbing 


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Location: 48.45197, -122.62799 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jaredvg on Aug 14, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up from the base of the Main Wall at Mt. E...

Lower Main Wall/East Buttress Trails Re-opened MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The main wall at Mt. Erie encompasses several walls, and contains many routes with many different styles of climbing. There are steep sport routes and slabs as well as bolted and traditional multi-pitch climbs. The rock on the main wall and surrounding areas is generally solid diorite, fairly clean, and some of the quickest to dry after a rain. The cliff is South to Southwest facing, and as such, receives sun from mid morning until sunset. Climbs here range from 5.7 to 5.12. A good selection of 5.11 climbs exist on the snag buttress. The area is generally not crowded. Helmets are advisable as there are many hiking trails and ledges covered in loose rock above the cliffs.

Getting There 

Parking is in a pullout on the east side of Hart Lake Road 1/8 mile north of the Lake Erie Grocery. Take the 248 trail which leads up into the woods on the right side of the gate. This trail is followed for 5-10 minutes until it comes to a T junction with the 247 trail. Take a right on this trail and walk for another 2-5 minutes, watching for a less traveled unmarked trail on the left. Head left along the less traveled trail, uphill again and into the woods towards the base of the cliff. After moving up a couple short rock steps the trail enters a clearing, which gives a good view of the routes on the Headwall and Snag Buttress. Take the trail the rest of the way up to the cliffs keeping to the right at one last fork (which goes left to Ramp Wall). The trail meets the cliff at a prominent right facing corner, which is the first pitch of Zig Zag. Total approach time is about 15 – 20 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',6],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',5],['5.11',3],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
Zig Zag   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Undercover   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Sunshine on a Dark Day   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Springboard   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 75'   
Gotta Keep Dancin   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 155'   
Lord of the Dance   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 3 pitches, 180'   
Raindown   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Frogs in Space   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 of Dancin' with the Divine.

Dancin' with the Divine (aka the Dallas Kloke Memorial Route) 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  WA : Northwest Region : ... : Main Wall
PITCH 1: Climb the first pitch of Lord of the Dance (5.7) or Dance with Ticks (5.10c/d)PITCH 2: From belay, move left up crack placing gear, move into overhanging corner with three bolts. Short pitch 40'. (5.10c)PITCH 3: Climb corners and slab with two bolts to broken overhanging crack with two bolts. Continue up and left in crack. Reach over and clip one bolt from the crack and then fire the crux (5.11c). 30 feet of exposured 5.10 climbing pass three more bolts. 90' pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in WA

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By smassey
From: CO
Sep 4, 2011
Summer 2011 some more bolt replacement occurred here. In addition to Frogs, the route to the right of it had the 4 pro bolts replaced, as well as the anchor (now Fixe double-rings). Also, the 5th bolted route right of zigzag had all 7 pro bolts and the anchor replaced. The route two to the right of that also had the anchor replaced.

All new hardware was provided by the ASCA. 1/2"x2.75" Stainless Powers 5-piece with Fixe hangers or double-ring hangers for anchors. This stuff is expensive, so please donate to the ASCA.