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Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
6-fingered Man, The T 
99 Red Balloons S 
As You Wish S 
Butler Route T,TR 
Fire Swamp, The S 
Giant Killer, The S 
Once Were Warriors S 
Pejos Route S 
Planet of the Apes S 
Prince Humperdink S,TR 
Princess Buttercup S 
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size) S 
Unknown Crack T 
Unknown Crack Route T 
Westley S 

Main Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,400'
Page Views: 7,544
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 4, 2007
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BETA PHOTO: The routes of the Main Wall of Gallows Edge. Topo ...

Description 

The Main Wall at Gallows Edge has the largest concentration of routes at Gallows. 8 bolted routes and a few crack lines are found here.

Carlo Torres, Jon Butler, Lucas Laeser, and Mike Lyons discovered this wall, and solo'd most of the 1st ascents.

Getting There 

Follow directions for accessing Gallows Edge.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',4],['5.8',5],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
Princess Buttercup   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 32'   
Pejos Route   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 45'   
R.O.U.S. (Rodents Of Unusual Size)   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 40'   
99 Red Balloons   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   
The Fire Swamp   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   
Once Were Warriors   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   
Planet of the Apes   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody on Once Were Warriors and Amy B. on Pejos Rou...

Once Were Warriors 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  New Mexico : Los Alamos & White Rock : ... : Main Wall
A high first bolt is reached via easy climbing then more fun face climbing to the steep finish on big holds. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 9, 2008
I was the one that originally placed the "fixed" biners on the chains at Gallows last year. I used a mixture of steel hardware store clips and aluminum carabiners, just using what I had around my gear room. Certainly steel biners are best but more expensive. Aluminum biners wear much faster (especially if people are routinely TRing through them rather than using their own draws to TRing until the last person lowers) so perhaps those aluminum biners wore out to the point of being scary and someone removed them on account of safety. I'm cool with that.
What amazes me are climbers like the one Chris was climbing with who are either too thick-skulled or too cheap to realize that biners on chains aren't just there because someone forgot them or someone has loads of money and leaves biners each time they lower and that it's OK to remove them.
I plan to purchase some steel biners and fix them to the chains with bailing wire at Gallows Edge. Certainly the bailing wire is not a real deterrent to those that are determined to score "booty" biners but at least the wire will signal to those that are clueless that the biners are meant to be there for the safety and convenience of everyone that climbs the route.
Actually, I was recently given a box of new hardware for anchor replacement as a part of the Climbing Magazine's Anchor Replacement Initiative (ARI) and perhaps Gallows is a good candidate for these. What do you think?

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