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|Submitted By:||Anthony Stout on Aug 6, 2006|
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By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Jun 11, 2008
Routes from Left to Right, all grades are from Beverly's Jemez Rock Guide, although things might be a little easier than indicated.
00 Castle Greyskull V4, Boulder Traverse
01 Phrenology 11b, Chossy Slab
02 Brave Little Toaster 10c, slab climb with lots of un-positive holds
03 Meltdown 12c, Short and Sustained with a fun finish
04 Evil Elliot 11d, Also called Battering Ram??
05 Evil Alchemist 5.13a, Start on Seige Warfare and head up and left after the second bolt.
06 Siege Warfare 5.12c/d, Steep Start, to crimpfest pulling lip
07 Dragon's Lair 5.13c, Extension of Siege Warfare thru roof
08 Peter's Route 5.12b, aka Against Nature, Steep Start to classic headwall
09 Death Drives a Stick 5.13b/c, Extension of Peter's Route
10 Excalibur 5.12c, aka Gangland
11 Loose Cannon 5.13b, Steep to a hard crux
12 The Catapult 5.13b, shares crux with Loose Cannon
13 Roof Finish 5.13b/c, Roof Finish for Excalibur, Loose Cannon, and The Catapult
14 Moat Jump 5.12a, The classic route on the wall
15 Moat Pump 5.12d, Hard moves, then joins Moat Jump
16 Rogue Warrior 5.12b, Powerful Start to Join Moat Jump's anchors
17 Couch Warrior 5.12a, Doesn't look like it gets climbed much.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Apr 2, 2010
Many people stick-clip the 2nd bolt on these routes.
Fixed steel biners have been put on the chains on a number of these climbs recently, to make it easier to lower off and won't be worn out as quickly as the aluminum ones that were there.