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Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Boundaries S 
Arcanum T,S 
Crack of Dawn T,S 
Eight Miles High S 
Immaculate Deception T,S 
Kama Sutra T 
Lightspeed S 
Mind Bender S 
MLK T,S 
Mystic Mile S 
Prince Charmer T,S 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 
Tree of Life, The T 
Walk on the Wide Side T 
Wave, The S 
Wings of Desire S 

Main Wall Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.99654, -105.41685 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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You & This Area
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BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.

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  • Description 

    The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

    Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

    L->R:

    A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
    B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
    above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
    C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
    D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
    D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
    E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
    F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
    G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
    H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
    I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
    J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
    J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
    K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
    L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
    L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
    M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
    N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

    Getting There 

    Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.5 miles from here

    16 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
    Walk on the Wide Side   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
    Kama Sutra   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
    Eight Miles High   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   
    Mystic Mile   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall

    Featured Route For Main Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch of Immaculate Deception.  The dire...

    Immaculate Deception 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
    This is a one-move climb with decent 5.9 climbing below and above the crux, and a hard direct start that should be posted separately. Rossiter calls the crux overhang 11a. For someone of my height (6' 2") it's much easier but tricky to figure it out. Not sure how to rate this. It might be 10a for me. Might be 11a if you're shorter.Start: Just right of the wide crack of Walk on the Wide Side is a thin, somewhat flared crack with several bolts leading to an overhang. This is the direct start. Ross...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
    BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...
    BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...

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