REI Community
Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Boundaries S 
Arcanum T,S 
Crack of Dawn T,S 
Eight Miles High S 
Immaculate Deception T,S 
Kama Sutra T 
Lightspeed S 
Mind Bender S 
MLK T,S 
Mystic Mile S 
Prince Charmer T,S 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 
Tree of Life, The T 
Walk on the Wide Side T 
Wave, The S 
Wings of Desire S 

Main Wall Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.99654, -105.41685 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.

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  • Description 

    The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

    Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

    L->R:

    A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
    B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
    above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
    C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
    D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
    D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
    E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
    F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
    G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
    H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
    I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
    J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
    J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
    K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
    L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
    L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
    M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
    N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

    Getting There 

    Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.5 miles from here

    16 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
    Walk on the Wide Side   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
    Kama Sutra   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
    Eight Miles High   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   
    Mystic Mile   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall

    Featured Route For Main Wall
    Rock Climbing Photo: The final headwall on the second pitch of Arcanum....

    Arcanum 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
    Arcanum is a "mixed" route, some trad, some bolts. The crux section is short but steep, hands and fingers. The bolts are where they are needed--gear would be non-existent (pitch 2) or small and funky (bottom and top of pitch 1). The rock on the first pitch is a little ugly, but solid and reasonably clean.Begin near a large pine, a few feet left of a big flake that leans against the wall. This is right of the flake of Eight Miles High/Mind Bender.Pitch 1: Climb a moderat...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
    BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...
    BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...

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