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Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aerial Boundaries S 
Arcanum T,S 
Crack of Dawn T,S 
Eight Miles High S 
Immaculate Deception T,S 
Kama Sutra T 
Lightspeed S 
Mind Bender S 
MLK T,S 
Mystic Mile S 
Prince Charmer T,S 
Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid S 
Tree of Life, The T 
Walk on the Wide Side T 
Wave, The S 
Wings of Desire S 

Main Wall Rock Climbing 


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Location: 39.99654, -105.41685 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 8,045
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ron Olsen on Mar 29, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Sleeping Beautry, Main Wall center.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Main Wall of Sleeping Beauty has the greatest concentration of routes. Lots of excellent climbs here. These routes start on Ledge 2, a long ledge system halfway up the rock, with several large trees.

Some of the routes are pure sport routes, but others require gear. All routes have 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch.

L->R:

A. Prince Charmer, 10-, 1p, 100', bolts & gear. LFD & bulge.
B. Lightspeed, 10+, 60', bolts. Small roof.
above B. Aerial Boundaries, 12- or 10- A0, 1p, 120', bolts. Rounded arete & bulge.
C. Sleeping Beauty, 10.
D1. Kama Sutra, 10, 2p, 180', gear. Crack through roof.
D2. The Tree of Life, 10, 1p, 165', bolt + gear.
E. Wings of Desire, 11, 1p, 160', bolts. Roof to face, angle L. Don't go R onto MLK.
F. MLK, 12-, 1p, 110', gear & bolts. Thin hand crack to face.
G. Walk on the Wide Side, 9 or 10. 2p, 180', gear & bolts.
H. Immaculate Deception, 10+, bolts & gear. 1-2p, 180', slab to roof. Alt crack start, 11+.
I. Crack of Dawn, 10, 2p, 160', gear & bolts. Crack & face to slab.
J1. Mystic Mile, 10, 2p, 190', bolts & optional gear. Face to roof to slab to roof.
J2. The Wave, 10- A0, 1p, 50', bolts. Overhanging face R of 2nd pitch of I.
K. The Spell, 10-, gear. 2p. Mossy crack to corner to roof.
L1. Eight Miles High, 10-, 1-2p, 210', bolts, slab, angle L to arete to slab. Top tree belay.
L2. Mind Bender, 11+, 1p, 90', bolts. Crack to roof to headwall.
M. Sunlight Makes Me Paranoid, 10, 1p, 95', bolts. Slab to corner to roof.
N. Arcanum, 10-, 2p, 175', bolts & gear. Slab to thin crack to roof to slab to headwall.

Getting There 

Climb Into the Mystic, which takes you to an anchor just right of the start of Mystic Mile, or scramble up via a steep path on the left. The first route you'll see is Lightspeed, a face leading to a roof about 15' up.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.5 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',2],['5.10',10],['5.11',2],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
Walk on the Wide Side   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 180'   
Kama Sutra   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Eight Miles High   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 210'   
Mystic Mile   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 190'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.

Crack of Dawn 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Wall
Crack of Dawn may be named after the famous Yosemite wide cracks Crack of Doom and Crack of Despair. This would be 2 stars if it was cleaner, but, due to water running down the crack, it may never be really clean.Start on ledge 2 at the first crack system left of Mystic Mile. Mystic Mile can be identified by a 2 bolt anchor just above the ledge. See beta photo.P1: 90' 10b: Make a couple moves up the crack then swing left onto the face to bypass the overhang. Using a com...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
BETA PHOTO: Left side of Sleeping Beauty.
Rock Climbing Photo: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...
BETA PHOTO: This is not really a new anchor, but a more useful...

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