REI Community
search
Main Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absolutely Billy T 
Absolutely Brilliant S 
Batmans Nightmare T 
Blue Cab T 
Boot Hill S 
Cheap Shot T 
Clown Car T 
Corrugation Corner T 
Crash Landing T 
Cross Town Traffic T 
Dead Pool, The T 
Dragon Back S 
Eeyore's Enigma T 
Epitaph T 
Freak Show T 
North Country T 
North Face Route T 
Power Lust S 
Purple Haze T 
R.I.P. S 
Silly Willy Crack T 
Stem Meister T 
Thunder Struck T 
Tombstone Terror T 
Traveler Buttress T 
Under The Big Top T 
Wall Flower T 
Yankee Dog T 
Youthful Exuberance T,S 

Main Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 5,000'
Location: 38.7998, -120.1353 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 68,029
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Guy H. on Feb 18, 2006
Forecast:
Tonight

60°
Tuesday

74° | 57°
Wednesday

75° | 57°
Thursday

80° | 59°
Friday

81° | 61°
Saturday

81° | 61°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Sunset on the Traveler Buttress

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This the largest formation at the Leap at 500ft. For a long day, you can link a route on the lower buttress to a multi-pitch climb on the main wall. The classic climbs on this wall include Corrugation Corner 5.7, Traveler Buttress 5.9, Hospital Corner 5.10a, and Tombstone Terror 5.10c. For information on getting to an Alcove where you can then climb the excellent climbs: 2nd pitch of "North Country", 2nd Pitch of "North Face", "Absolutely Brilliant", "Dragon Back" and a 5.9 Off Width See the Beta Picture below.

Getting There 

You can climb a route on the lower buttress or follow the trail along the right side of the buttress to the base.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.4 miles from here

29 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',13],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',1],['5.8',0],['5.9',3],['5.10',13],['5.11',8],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Wall:
Corrugation Corner   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   
Traveler Buttress   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Absolutely Billy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Crash Landing   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 140'   
Stem Meister   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Eeyore's Enigma   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Dragon Back   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
North Country   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 500'   
Tombstone Terror   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Purple Haze   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
North Face Route   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Power Lust   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 85'   
Absolutely Brilliant   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Boot Hill   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Dead Pool   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 100'   
R.I.P.   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   
Silly Willy Crack   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Wall

Featured Route For Main Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: There is a low first bolt, but you will need to pl...

Absolutely Billy 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  California : Lake Tahoe : ... : Main Wall
This new (2006) face route on Main Wall is excellent! Climb up to a bolt, up left into a flake which can be protected with #1 or #.75 Camalots, past another bolt to another flake which takes good cams as well. Then, another 5 or so bolts to the anchor. Rap off with a 60m rope. Lowering will kill your rope on this one....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Main Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Information on the fabulous climbing of 2nd pitch ...
BETA PHOTO: Information on the fabulous climbing of 2nd pitch ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking over towards the Main Wall from the East W...
Looking over towards the Main Wall from the East W...
Rock Climbing Photo: Traveler's Buttress.
BETA PHOTO: Traveler's Buttress.
Rock Climbing Photo: Main Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Main Wall. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: The main wall...
BETA PHOTO: The main wall...

Comments on Main Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Mr. Hummus
From: SLC, Utah
Jun 13, 2013
What direction is the Main wall facing? I'll be there in mid July and I am sure we will be chasing shade. Just hoping to plan out what we will be able to climb in the shade and when. Thanks!!
By John Robinson
From: Elk Grove, ca
Jun 30, 2014
Mr Hummus: You will get sun around 1 pm
By Jason Albino
From: San Francisco, CA
2 days ago
Note that "Main Wall" and "West Wall" climbs are located off the same continuous ledge system above the Lower Buttress, East Wall and Central Wall.

In terms of the hiking approach to Main/West Wall, note that once following the path up and right around the base of Lower Buttress, after 5-10 minutes the trail becomes less distinct and "social trail" forks exist which are at some points a bit loose and bushy. One of these forks stays right and skirts the Dear John Buttress all the way to the base of the right-most portion of West Wall. The other fork remains closer to Lower Buttress and involves a small bit of 3rd class boulder scrambling before turning back into a dirt trail that again forks almost as it reaches West Wall - the down and left-ward fork goes to Tombstone Ledge, while the path continuing upward goes to West Wall. If you're deeply bushwacking for more than a few steps, you're no longer on either path.

Either way, expect a bit of a steep slog relative to other Lover's Leap approaches. It's better done not in the smack middle of a hot day.

Once on the West Wall ledge looking directly up at rock, follow a path leftward (which initially descends a bit while still hugging the rock base) to reach Main Wall climbs.

Tombstone Ledge climbs are located off a smaller ledge system directly below the center-left portion of the Main Wall ledge. This ledge is a bit harder to find (it can also be approached via a separate trail that ascends from the right-most end of East/Central Wall). The following climbs start on Tombstone Ledge and NOT Main Wall proper:
- Epitaph
- R.I.P.
- Tombstone Terror
- Boot Hill
- Traveler Buttress
- Silly Willy Crack

Also, note that all of the following routes are located on a separate ledge ABOVE Main Wall, that is accessed via Stemmeister or the first pitch of North Face. Bring a 70m rope or a tag line to descend from these climbs if not topping out:
- North Face Route (pitches 2 and on)
- Absolutely Brilliant
- Dragon Back
- North Country

To descend from any climbs that top out West Wall or Main Wall (not all routes do - see individual route info for details), head climber's left from the top of the wall, more or less remaining on a trail that's near the cliff top and NOT back in the forest very far. This trail will eventually descend down to the top of East Wall, and continue left to join the East Wall descent back to the Pioneer Trail.

Have fun up there!

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About