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For Madmen Only TR 
Hollywood T,TR 
Josh's Hump T 
Lester the Molester T,TR 
Library, The T,TR 
Lower Undercling, The T,TR 
Main Street T 
Notch, The T,TR 
Nuts T,TR 
Nuts Corner Wandering Variation G T,TR 
Snowflake T 
Sunday Morning T 
Undercling, The T,TR 
Witches Brew T 

Main Street 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b PG13 [details]
Page Views: 231
Submitted By: Ross Purnell on Jun 17, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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BETA PHOTO: Jon Enterline (orange shirt) at the end of Main St...

One of the best trad leads at Chickies 

The Main Street Crack is the most obvious crack system just to the right of Witches Brew, and left of the face climbs Lester the Molester and Madmen Only. It's a great climbing crack system but does not extend all the way to the ground. If you are leading, the crux moves are just off the ground. You'll get your first piece a .75" Camalot while standing on a prominent light-colored ledge/notch 12 feet directly above the start. The best part of the climb is an obvious diagonal finger crack in a block near the finish of the climb. The crack ends on a small ledge near a small tree/bush. From the bush, you can move left into Witches Brew, finish straight up on the climb Josh's Hump, trend up and right and finish in the notch at the right side of the Great Roof, or you can traverse right and escape onto Riverview Ledge. Main Street is one of the great trad climbs of Chickies Rock and cannot be top-roped. You must lead it. It needs to be climbed more often, please climb this frequently and help clean dirt and grass to keep it climbable.


Near the left side of the Main Wall about 30 to 40 feet to the left of the Library dihedral look for the long, left-leaning crack system that starts just to the right of the small buttress. (The other side of the buttress near the tree is Witches Brew.)


No fixed gear. Use a spotter for the moves right off the ground. Once you get that first piece and get into the crack, there's an endless amount of awesome gear. Takes nuts, large tries-cams, hexes or whatever else you've got.

Photos of Main Street Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: main wall at Chickies
BETA PHOTO: main wall at Chickies
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan following on Main St.
BETA PHOTO: Ryan following on Main St.
Rock Climbing Photo: Main street runs right up the center of the photo....
Main street runs right up the center of the photo....

Comments on Main Street Add Comment
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By Larry S
From: Easton, Pennsylvania
Jun 30, 2010

A great route. Starts just right of a small inside corner. The start is a bit runout, but pretty easy. I recommend doing it in one pitch. Some parties head right and end at the ledge, but going through the right end of the roof is the best part of the climb. I usually tie off a tree about 20 feet back with the rope and back it up with some gear right at the edge to bring up my second.
By Ross Purnell
From: Palmyra
3 days ago

Just commenting on Larry's comment above which was dead on in 2010. But there's been a lot of erosion at the top of Chickies Rock and the tree he mentioned is now gone. You'll need to build a gear anchor at the summit .

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