South side of Main Rock. South Ridge (5.6) follow...
Main Rock, as the name suggests, is the largest formation at Angel Creek, home to the largest concentration of routes. It also boasts the longest routes in the area as well. There are climbs on all aspects of the rock, with the majority (and the best) on the eastern side. The granite ranges from solid on most of the routes to crystalline and crumbly on others. There are two routes generally used to access the bolts and anchors at the top of the formation - South Ridge (5.6) and Access Route (5.5), both of which can be led with a light rack.
Not only is Main Rock the largest block of granite in the area, it's also the farthest from the trail head. For the easiest hike, follow the trail to the elevated boardwalk section and continue up around First Rock, the Teenage Area, and Pumpmaster. You'll approach Main Rock from the northeast side. Another option is to take the faint trail that branches to the left just before the boardwalk section. This trail leads directly to Main Rock, but it's steeper and generally wetter.
Climbing Season For the Fairbanks and Vicinity area.
Weather station 9.2 miles from here
7 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Main Rock
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Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Rock:
Featured Route For Main Rock
Minor Groove 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Alaska
: Fairbanks and Vicinity
: ... : Main Rock
Minor Groove is probably one of the better routes at Angel Rocks - longer than most of the other routes, fun moves, and great rock all make this a fine route. At first glance it looks like a crack climb, but it's actually a thin face climb with a couple of crack moves in between. Start the climb on the face below the groove. After about 15 to 20 feet, a left angling crack/groove provides some good holds. The first crux is transitioning from the face into the bottom part of the groove. Look ...[more] Browse More Classics in Alaska