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Main Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Tuna S 
Corner Route S,TR 
Courtney S 
Dream On S 
Dreams of White Porsches S 
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster) S 
Holy Mackerel S 
Hot Tuna S 
Left Slab S,TR 
Mickey's Beach 4x7, The S 
Mickey's Beach Arete S 
Motion In The Ocean S 
Mutiny S 
Naked and Disfigured S,TR 
Nancy S 
Pelicans S,TR 
Sex Porpoises S 
Sharky's Machine TR 
Squid Vicious S 
Walkin' a Thin Line S,TR 
Wet Dreams S 
Unsorted Routes:

Main Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.88859, -122.63268 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,612
Administrators: Aron Quiter, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Aron Quiter on Sep 14, 2002
Forecast:
You & This Area
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Me belaying a friend on the Mickeys main wall

Description 

This is the main rock at Mickey's beach. When you head down the main path into Mickey's beach, this will be the prominent rock you see. There are approximately 20 routes on the main rock, mostly quite tough. There are two 5.10's (a b and c) and then a few .11d's, the rest comprising of .12's and lower end 13's.

There are no access issues here, as the state parks system has turned a blind eye on the area. All they ask is that if you bolt, make sure to maintain what you've added.

There are tons of classics on the main rock, and if you're into tough climbing and are spending some time in the bay area and don't want to drive more than a few hours, this is where you should be.

This area will be in the sun most of the time, but some of the lower routes are tide dependent, as the rock sits literally on the beach. Beware of fog in the morning, and also in the winter months.

Getting There 

From the main parking lot, head down the major path that was recently cleaned (September 14th, 2002 thank you Rock Rendevous). The main rock will be the prominent rock in the middle of the first cluster you see as you come to the beach.

The majority of climbs are around the right side of the rock.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.6 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',6],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',2],['5.11',3],['5.12',10],['5.13',6],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Rock:
Walkin' a Thin Line   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Left Slab   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Nancy   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   
Courtney   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Hot Tuna   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
Pelicans   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sex Porpoises   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Wet Dreams   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Naked and Disfigured   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
Gidget (Meets the Turgid Seamonster)   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Holy Mackerel   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Rock

Featured Route For Main Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: John Mireles on the second ascent of Dream On, in ...

Dream On 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c  CA : San Francisco Bay Area : ... : Main Rock
After climbing the overhang on Dreams, branch right across the slab (runout!) and climb the thin, vertical face past three more bolts. The upper wall is 12+, with the final moves being the hardest....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Main Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Friend max on the easy part of the rock.
Friend max on the easy part of the rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: From the approach, about halfway down the trail. T...
BETA PHOTO: From the approach, about halfway down the trail. T...

Comments on Main Rock Add Comment
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By Ian J Walters
Aug 21, 2016
Hey folks, someone swiped 6 of my draws (5 brand new black/gold black diamond and 1 old gray BD draw) off of 'Sturgeon' either 9/19 or 9/20. If that was you or you know the person who grabbed them, please email me at ijameswalters@gmail.com. Thank you!