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Main Island

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Alcove, The 
Holy Wars Cliff 
Maltese Falcon Cliff 
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Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff 

Main Island Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,900'
Location: 37.7891, -118.9141 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 11,170
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Euan Cameron on Jul 4, 2008
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The Sierras from Clark Canyon - Bloody Couloir is ...


This area plays host to some of the best sections of rock at Clark Canyon. As the name suggests, the island has climbing on all sides, ranging from short pocket pulling at The Alcove, to long sustained climbs at Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff.

Getting There 

From the parking lot hike up the trail going straight past the boulder. At the split, take the right trail (the left goes to Area 13) up the steep hill to the base of the Main Island.

Climbing Season

Weather station 10.1 miles from here

34 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Island

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Island:
Peanut Brittle   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 85'   The Alcove
Pull My Finger   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 3 pitches, 190'   Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
Driller Instinct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
Jihad   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Holy Wars Cliff
Maltese Falcon   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Maltese Falcon Cliff
Dirty Dancing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Holy Wars Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Island

Featured Route For Main Island
Rock Climbing Photo: Driller Instinct

Driller Instinct 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : Stoned Wheat Thin Cliff
This is described in the guidebook as perhaps the best route at Clark Canyon. It is a beautiful, long pitch of steep climbing on great rock. Climb the bolted, right-facing dihedral before heading out right on to the face after the fifth (?) bolt. Climb the face to a small roof, passing it on the right, to a long, ever-steepening arete to the anchor. Be careful lowering/rappelling off. A 70-meter rope will lower you to the first bolt of the route, from where you can downclimb to the ground. Thos...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of Main Island Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Main Island seen from the approach path.
BETA PHOTO: The Main Island seen from the approach path.

Comments on Main Island Add Comment
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By weisseseis
Oct 25, 2014
The directions here are a little confusing:

"From the parking lot hike up the trail going straight past the boulder. At the split..."

The split is before the boulder.

"... take the right trail (the left goes to Area 13) up the steep hill to the base of the Main Island."

Left and right should be switched here. Area 13 is to the right of the Main Island.

Unless I'm really confused...

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