REI Community
Main Face

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Kid Fears Direct Start S 
Afternoon Delight T,S 
Balance Climb 7 T 
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 
Balance Climb 2 T 
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 
Balance Climb 4 T 
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 
Balance Climb 9 T 
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 
Dihedral T 
Edges to Ledges T 
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 
First Overhang T 
First Overhang - Right T 
Gather No Moss T 
Kid Fears T 
Latest Edition T 
Limited Edition T 
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 
New Standards S 
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 
Overhang Approach T 
Slip and Slide T 
Snake Route T 
Special Edition T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Stannard's Crack T 
Three Cam Party T 
Two Man Party Blue S 
Two Man Party Green S 
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 
Two Man Party White S 
Two-Man Party Yellow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Main Face Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 34.63735, -83.71498 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 28,647
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 7, 2007  with updates from Harrison Laird
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You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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BETA PHOTO: Approach to main face

Description 

The Main Face has the largest number of routes and the longest climbs at Mount Yonah, including some multi-pitch. Many of the routes were established by the Army for training purposes; though fun, there's a certain sameness about these, both in the climbing and the route names. However, there are some challenging routes on this wall as well, such as Stannard's Crack and Special Edition.

This is an excellent place to set up topropes for beginning climbers, as there is a whole section of 5.easy routes where the anchors can be reached simply by climbing with the help of a cable (to which you clip your daisy chain). These are also a great training ground for new trad leaders.

Getting There 

From the lower LZ, follow the trail signs for the Main Face. When you get to the cliff, you'll find cables strung to aid in making the 4th-class scramble to the cliffline trail.

Climbing Season



Weather station 2.1 miles from here

37 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',21],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',20],['5.7',2],['5.8',4],['5.9',5],['5.10',1],['5.11',4],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Face:
Balance Climb 5   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Two Man Party Blue   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Balance Climb 6   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   
Dihedral   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Edges to Ledges   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 210'   
Latest Edition   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Three Cam Party   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Limited Edition   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Special Edition   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Obscured By Clouds   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70'   
Snake Route   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Stannard's Crack   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 35'   
Stairway to Heaven   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Afternoon Delight   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Sport, 80'   
Kid Fears   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Face

Featured Route For Main Face
Rock Climbing Photo: Paul following LSD.

Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Georgia : Mount Yonah : Main Face
LSD offers thin balancy slab climbing past three bolts to a bolted belay. First bolt is high. There is a second optional pitch that goes up underneath the second overhang. Rap from bolts up there....[more]   Browse More Classics in Georgia

Photos of Main Face Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: top of Army Green
top of Army Green
Rock Climbing Photo: I set up a "bivy" above Balance climb 3 ...
I set up a "bivy" above Balance climb 3 ...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the main wall from parking area
BETA PHOTO: View of the main wall from parking area
Rock Climbing Photo: right near the LZ
right near the LZ
Rock Climbing Photo: Gather No Moss
Gather No Moss
Rock Climbing Photo: These guys are always around on the Main Face.  I ...
These guys are always around on the Main Face. I ...
Rock Climbing Photo: approach to the main face
approach to the main face
Rock Climbing Photo: mount yonah
mount yonah

Comments on Main Face Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chase Bowman
From: Baton Rouge/Durango
Jul 29, 2014
Be careful if you climb here in the winter. My brother and I went up to the main face in early January and there was ice everywhere. it was do dangerous to climb because of the ice fall.
By Chase Bowman
From: Baton Rouge/Durango
Sep 29, 2014
All of the Balance climbs have Two bolts right below the cable that spans across the top. The Bolts now have rappel rings. The rap rings were not placed by the Army.
By Josh Ziska
Jul 24, 2017
Most of the signs for Main face are missing but, if you head past the first LZ and up to a clearing with some bathrooms take the trails that are to the right. Mostly you need to stay right on the path and you will eventually make it what I think is main face. I couldn't find many more than a couple routes with bolts but, they were fun for our group of mostly beginners.
By Gunks Jesse
From: Shawangunk Township, NY
Aug 16, 2017
Directions to Main Face from the trailhead parking lot:

Follow the green blazed trail up the mountain. You will pass the landing zone (LZ in case you don't know like I didn't). Skirt around or go through it. Green picks up but is not well marked on the other side, but it is identifiable as the well traveled trail. There is a water run off/trail on ascenders right and a second trail on ascenders left.

You will next arrive at the bathrooms. Take the obvious trail to the right that goes up. While the smaller trails appear to be climbers trails that are to the right of the obvios trail they don't lead directly to the main face but go there in a round about way.

About 150 yards up the trail from the clearing you will arrive at the base of the access to main face. This is where the army cable starts that takes up to the Two Man Climbs.

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