|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch, 75'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Gus Glitch and Sean Cobourn|
|Submitted By:||Sean Cobourn on Sep 1, 2008|
|Comments on Main Event||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Sean Cobourn
From: Gramling, SC
Dec 14, 2009
|there are reports as of Dec. 09 that one of the bolts is loose. there are also reports of decent gear nearby. I suggest carrying a light rack on this route.|
By Edward Medina
From: Ridgway, CO
Jan 24, 2010
|The third bolt on this route came loose and was removed at the park's request. Bring medium sized nuts or small cams to protect the move over the roof. Excellent protection just a few inches right of where the old bolt was located.|
From: Charlotte, NC
Jul 14, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
a 0.5 BD cam or #4 metolius master cam works perfectly under the roof in the obvious seam, which protects the roof move well.
This climb isn't much to look at from the ground but get on it and give it a go because the moves are really nice. I'm not sure where the 5.9 move is--- felt more like a solid, sustained 5.8.
NOTE: anchor bolt washers are well rusted... guessing there are some metal compatibility issues with the washers which is always concerning since that same sort of oxidization is likely happening in non-visible places.
By Dave K
Dec 29, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
|^comments above are still correct in that the roof move is best led with a gear placement...doesn't mean it cant be done, although a fall above the roof would come awfully close to decking from ~30 feet.|