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Main Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ante Up T 
Booty Call T 
Bungle in the Jungle T 
Crack a Smile T 
Easy Access T 
Hangman's T,TR 
Happy Ending S 
Hi-C T,TR 
Jungle Blocks T 
Keelin's Delight T 
Keelin's Dilemma T,TR 
McLuvin T,TR 
Nice N Easy T 
One Move Wonder T 
Rip the Tips T 
Sassafras T 
Swamp Crack T 
Time For Tim T,TR 
Undercling Slab T 
Warm Up T 
Zig Zag T,TR 

Main Crag Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dallas Branum on Jul 1, 2014
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Description 

Craig Spaulding and Paul Corridon have spent a lot of time and energy into putting together an incredible guide for the climbs of the main crag at Love Gap. Get their easy to print guide below.

sicgrips.com/Love_Gap_Guide.ht...

The following pictures, route descriptions, and topos are all their work from the guide, and are reproduced here with their permission.

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Love Gap, compared to Seneca or Franklin, is an insignificant crag. It is definitely not a destination crag. However, it’s a great place to climb if you're a local or staying in Charlottesville, Staunton, or Harrisonburg. It consists mainly of easy to moderate trad climbing. Due to the wandering nature, multiple possible lines, and decomposed granite, it can be a bit of an adventure until you’re familiar with the routes. Most routes can be top-roped or traditionally lead, and there is one sport lead. Most routes will require you to lead an easier route in order to set a TR (the exception being the far righthand end of the crag where several routes can be set by hiking up and around). There is a wide variety of climbing including friction,
slab, crack, OW, steep face crimps, huge roof projects, and yes, choss! :-) Helmets are advised for both leading and belaying. We have pulled off everything from crimper to softball-sized chunks while climbing.

Most climbs are a single pitch, 60'-100' with one route having two options for a second pitch. It's climbable year round but since it's southwest facing, it's especially good from fall through the winter to spring. Even at close to freezing temperatures in winter, if the sun’s out and there’s no wind, it can be enjoyable climbing. In the summer it can be hot, sticky and the rock often has a humid/damp feeling which makes it less suitable than Raven's Roost or Little Stony Man
with their west faces and the prevailing westerly breezes.

Getting There 

Location: From either the west side or east side of the of the Blue Ridge: Exit 64 at Afton and go south on the Parkway until you reach mile marker 16, then turn left onto Campbell's Mountain Rd. (Route 814). Proceed about a ½ mile on Campbell Mountain Rd (dirt) to a turn out area on your right. Alternately from the east, you can access the Parkway way by going up past Wintergreen, then south on the Parkway for ~2 miles.

The parking area is on private land and if there’s not a line across it (usually during hunting season), the owner has given permission for climbers to park there. Please do not block his driveway or gate and make sure you don’t leave any trash. If it is lined off, you can pull off to the side of the road and park. Proceed across the road and start down a rough Forest Service access road for about 50’. On your left there’s (often) a stone cairn marking the start of the trail between two trees. Further down the access road you will see a gate. If you’ve reached that, you’ve gone to far. Follow the trail traversing basically straight across the hill to the base of the crag, which is about 5 minutes walk. You’ll see evidence of private land markings on your left. However, the trail itself is on National Forest land. When the leaves are down it’s easy to see the rocks from the midpoint of the trail. However, after the leaves are out you won’t see the rocks until you’re almost at them. The routes are listed from left to right and the approach trail joins the crag at route 4.

Climbing Season

For the Blue Ridge Parkway area.

Weather station 6.2 miles from here

21 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',12],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',6],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',3],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Main Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Jungle Blocks

Jungle Blocks 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  Virginia : Central & Southern VA Regio... : ... : Main Crag
6. Jungle Blocks (~5.4, 70') Use the same start as Warm-Up. However at the large tree 15’ up, proceed left up a vegetated and bushy gully. Follow it up till it gets steep and turns into cracks and blocks. Follow them up and right to surmount them where the angle slacks off and you can continue over to the anchors at the top of Keelin's Delight. This can provide a way to set a TR on Keelin's Delight if you don't want to lead it or use it as an ‘escape’ from Ante-Up....[more]   Browse More Classics in Virginia

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By Randy Garrett
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
Aug 9, 2014
So, a bit of a meander to get here but the directions actually are pretty good. I thought the rock would be bigger... All in all a worthwhile day trip from C'ville. Rock is mostly solid and not a lot of traffic in the area. Easier hike in than the one to Wintergreen!

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