left side of main crag
Home to about twenty sport routes, the Main Crag is one of the more heavily traveled areas at Allenspur and a great spot to get started. A crag with a high concentration of routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range, you'll find a large variety of climbing, mostly under 5.11, with a few 5.12's. A full set of draws is recommended as are a couple of runners. Most routes require on average, about ten draws.
A nice 20 minute approach gets you to this crag, enjoy morning shade and afternoon sun. A great area with classic routes and quality lines. Beware of loose rock!
From the Carter Bridge Fishing Access Site, walk east and south down East River Road for 250 yards. Turn east and follow the climbers trail up to the base of Boundry Crag. Once there, follow the trail left (aiming north) and walk for about three hundred feet. The Main Crag is the next crag you encounter.
Climbing Season For the Allenspur area.
Weather station 4.9 miles from here
20 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in Main Crag
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Crag
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Crag:
Beach Break 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Point Break 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Cold Feet 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 50'
Featured Route For Main Crag
Sully's Route 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a MT
: Paradise Valley
: ... : Main Crag
P1: Climb the obvious bolt line right of "Todos" which surmounts the large overhang. The crux is pulling the lip of the roof. The climb is much easier than it looks due to massive jugs through the overhang. P2: The second pitch traverses right and is substantially harder, probably 10d or 11a. It is also airy and committing. Not a tope rope due to the traverse so belay off the tree at the top and rappel down the chains to the left....[more] Browse More Classics in MT