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Main Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Face S 
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 
Bloodstone T 
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 
Digital Divide T 
Frothing Green S 
Gutter Ball T 
Lucky Strike S 
Meteor Rhoadblock S 
Midge Squadron S 
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 
Next to Nothing S 
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 
Pooky Proof T 
Shiny Dog S 
Singin' in the Rain T 
Super Bon Bon S 
Take the Termites Bowling S 
Woody's Landlord T 

Main Crag Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001


66° | 39°

64° | 36°

63° | 39°

63° | 36°

47° | 31°
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BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.

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  • Description 

    This is a relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well-protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.

    The following routes are on Main Crag of Bowling Alley, about 75 yards before Practice Rock. L->R:

    A. Lucky Strike, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
    B. Frothing Green, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts
    C. Next To Nothing, 12, 2p, 105', bolts.
    D. Amazing Face, 12+, 2p, 105', bolts.
    E. Meteor Roadblock, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
    F1. Super Bon Bon, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
    F2. Shiny Dog, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
    G. Taking The Termites Bowling, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

    Above a ledge half-way up:

    AA. P2 of Next To Nothing, 12, 1p, bolts.
    BB. continuation of Amazing Face, 12+, 1p, bolts.
    CC. Bloodstone, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
    DD. Oil Pan Hook Shot, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
    EE. Singin' in the Rain, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
    FF. Bowling Ball And Chain, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

    Down and R:

    H. Digital Divide, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
    I. Midge Squadron, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
    J. Bad Girls Get Spanked, 11, 1p, 90',bolts.
    K. Pooky Proof, 7+, 1p, 105', gear.
    L. Mosquito Burrito, 8 or 9, 1p, 105', bolts.
    M. Chihuahua Enchilada, 10+ R, 1p, gear.

    Getting There 

    At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 5.5 miles from here

    20 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Main Crag

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Crag:
    Pooky Proof   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Mosquito Burrito   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105'   
    Chihuahua Enchilada   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Bad Girls Get Spanked   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
    Midge Squadron   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
    Meteor Rhoadblock   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Next to Nothing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 60'   
    Super Bon Bon   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Amazing Face   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Crag

    Featured Route For Main Crag
    Rock Climbing Photo: Travis On-Site. Pic. By Scott B.

    Take the Termites Bowling 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
    This route is the farthest right in the gully which separates the two separate rock formations at the bowling alley. There are three routes here that are really close together. One of them should of been left as a toprope. Climb up on good golds to a seam, lieback and an interesting crux. The bolts stay on your left for most of the climb. They seem to be a little far to the left for the bottom, but that might be due to loose rock....[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Main Crag Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...
    BETA PHOTO: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...

    Comments on Main Crag Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Jan 11, 2003
    Is this named the Bowling Alley because of the car noise? (Bowling alleys are loud.) It's extremely loud and distracting. It made communication hard at times even though we were only about 60-80 feet apart.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Jun 3, 2005
    I was climbing here a couple of weeks ago on that unnamed 5.9 that's only 3 bolts. I was toproping, and as I went to clean the route, I pulled a pretty big chunk of rock off right below the anchors. I don't know for certain if it compromised the integrity of the anchors, but I didn't trust it much (since I was up there!). It wasn't that the anchors were going or anything, but it was scary how easily I yanked off that big chunk. It just makes me wonder a bit about the rock that the anchors are drilled in to. I'm no rock master or anything, but I would suggest either not climbing it at all, and if you absolutely have to, then don't toprope it and rap off the anchors when you clean it. I'm probably being overly cautious here, and I'm sure it's probably fine, but I would feel awful if people didn't at least know about it and something did happen. Sorry to post as an "anonymous coward!" I don't have much time to set up a name.

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