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Main Crag

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Amazing Face S 
Bad Girls Get Spanked S,TR 
Bloodstone T 
Bowling Ball and Chain S,TR 
Chihuahua Enchilada T,TR 
Digital Divide T 
Frothing Green S 
Gutter Ball T 
Lucky Strike S 
Meteor Rhoadblock S 
Midge Squadron S 
Mosquito Burrito S,TR 
Next to Nothing S 
Oil Pan Hook Shot S,TR 
Pooky Proof T 
Shiny Dog S 
Singin' in the Rain T 
Super Bon Bon S 
Take the Termites Bowling S 
Woody's Landlord T 

Main Crag Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 16,339
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

31° | 16°

38° | 23°

37° | 9°

18° | 0°

14° | 2°

22° | 9°
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BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is a relatively newly bolted crag just east of Practice Rock. Somebody went bolt-crazy on this rock, but the result is very well-protected routes. It's a steep dihedral; the east face is a solid slab, while the west face feels inverted and a little more crumbly. With a 60m rope, there's a great belay station with a nice rock as a bench. This is section contains the bulk of the routes on this crag.

The following routes are on Main Crag of Bowling Alley, about 75 yards before Practice Rock. L->R:

A. Lucky Strike, 11, 1p, 100', bolts.
B. Frothing Green, 11-, 1p, 105', bolts
C. Next To Nothing, 12, 2p, 105', bolts.
D. Amazing Face, 12+, 2p, 105', bolts.
E. Meteor Roadblock, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F1. Super Bon Bon, 12, 1p, 55', bolts.
F2. Shiny Dog, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
G. Taking The Termites Bowling, 11, 1p, 45', bolts.

Above a ledge half-way up:

AA. P2 of Next To Nothing, 12, 1p, bolts.
BB. continuation of Amazing Face, 12+, 1p, bolts.
CC. Bloodstone, 11, 1p, 55', bolts.
DD. Oil Pan Hook Shot, 11-, 1p, 50', bolts.
EE. Singin' in the Rain, 10, 1p, 60', bolts.
FF. Bowling Ball And Chain, 10-, 1p, 50', bolts.

Down and R:

H. Digital Divide, 10+, 1p, 40', bolts.
I. Midge Squadron, 11, 1p, 90', bolts.
J. Bad Girls Get Spanked, 11, 1p, 90',bolts.
K. Pooky Proof, 7+, 1p, 105', gear.
L. Mosquito Burrito, 8 or 9, 1p, 105', bolts.
M. Chihuahua Enchilada, 10+ R, 1p, gear.

Getting There 

At 8.1 miles from the entrance to Boulder Canyon (the first bridge you cross - see Yahoo! map) there is a small turn off. It's on the right side, just below practice rock, about 300 yards past Boulder falls. The crag is about 50 yards east and 30 yards up the hill from the parking lot.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.5 miles from here

20 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',10],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Crag:
Pooky Proof   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Mosquito Burrito   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 105'   
Chihuahua Enchilada   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   
Bad Girls Get Spanked   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
Midge Squadron   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Meteor Rhoadblock   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Next to Nothing   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 2 pitches, 60'   
Super Bon Bon   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Amazing Face   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 2 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Crag

Featured Route For Main Crag
Rock Climbing Photo:

Bad Girls Get Spanked 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Main Crag
This is as great route. Belay from under the obvious tree. Scramble up the class 4 to the base of the left face. Follow the crack up and right. Cool move onto the ledge about 15 feet off the ground. Stand on the ledge and follow the vertical crack up to the horizontal slash (crux) then up and right to the undercling. Another badass move on this route is the static move to the undercling. (Note: A big hold below the undercling is off limits. See red dot.) Layback to the ledge, then climb the lef...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Main Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...
BETA PHOTO: Frothing Green, on the upper part of the Bowling A...

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By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jan 11, 2003
Is this named the Bowling Alley because of the car noise? (Bowling alleys are loud.) It's extremely loud and distracting. It made communication hard at times even though we were only about 60-80 feet apart.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 3, 2005
Gear Alert
I was climbing here a couple of weeks ago on that unnamed 5.9 that's only 3 bolts. I was toproping, and as I went to clean the route, I pulled a pretty big chunk of rock off right below the anchors. I don't know for certain if it compromised the integrity of the anchors, but I didn't trust it much (since I was up there!). It wasn't that the anchors were going or anything, but it was scary how easily I yanked off that big chunk. It just makes me wonder a bit about the rock that the anchors are drilled in to. I'm no rock master or anything, but I would suggest either not climbing it at all, and if you absolutely have to, then don't toprope it and rap off the anchors when you clean it. I'm probably being overly cautious here, and I'm sure it's probably fine, but I would feel awful if people didn't at least know about it and something did happen. Sorry to post as an "anonymous coward!" I don't have much time to set up a name.