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Main Cliff

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blockhead T 
Captain Obvious T 
Capulin Classic T 
Circumlocution T 
Crap T 
Dark Crystal T 
Easy, Vicar! T 
Endgame T 
Fergus T 
Fists of Fury T 
Free Pussy Riot T 
Frisky Widow T 
Garden Party T 
Gauntlet T 
Hallucinogen Roof T 
Hellbender T 
History Lesson T 
Holloween T 
Hollowlean T 
Killa Beez T 
Less Than Zero T 
Lightning Road T 
Loctite T 
Monkey Spank T 
Monster T 
Nuclear Winter T 
Orb Weaver T 
Perk Up T 
Perk-ocet T 
Perkolater T 
Physical T 
Pinch Point T 
Pinky Mice T 
Pintrest T 
Ponderosa T 
Pretty Fly for a White Guy T 
Restless T 
Rue Morgue Avenue T 
Rufie T 
Silver City T 
Slotterhouse T 
Squoze T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Sticky Fingers T 
Taqueria T 
Tree Hugger T 
Unfinished T 
Unnamed T 
Unnamed 2 T 
Unnamed 3 T 
Urban Fantasy T 
Whole Lota Rosie T 
Widdershins T 
Widowmaker T 
Witchcraft and Widgetry T 

Main Cliff Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 35.77557, -106.37484 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 5,127
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Josh Smith on Oct 26, 2013
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Routes surrounding Monkey Up and Pretty Fly.

Description 

The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.

Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.

Getting There 

Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

55 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',4],['5.10',20],['5.11',25],['5.12',5],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Main Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Cliff:
Tree Hugger   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Easy, Vicar!   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
Captain Obvious   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 102'   
Physical   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 140'   
Frisky Widow   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hellbender   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Capulin Classic   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
History Lesson   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Loctite   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 190'   
Sticky Fingers   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 85'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Cliff

Featured Route For Main Cliff
Rock Climbing Photo: W&W could use an independent anchor above the left...

Witchcraft and Widgetry 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c PG13  New Mexico : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : ... : Main Cliff
The thin, clean open book left of Capulin Classic. The corner starts at tiny wires and gradually opens to .4 camalots at the hanging roof. Bouldery moves through the roof take you to a no-hands ledge. Clip a long LA and follow the left seam/crack through two more bulging cruxes. A spectacular trad route....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Mexico

Photos of Main Cliff Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The obvious bench between Restless (upcanyon) and ...
BETA PHOTO: The obvious bench between Restless (upcanyon) and ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview showing Stairway to Heaven, Hellbender, a...
BETA PHOTO: Overview showing Stairway to Heaven, Hellbender, a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
BETA PHOTO: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
Rock Climbing Photo: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...
BETA PHOTO: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...

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