BETA PHOTO: Routes surrounding Monkey Up and Pretty Fly.
The main cliff is the first one above the Bandelier boundary. See the approach map on the main Capulin page. The main cliff has the majority of the longer routes--some are 200 foot single pitches. Two ropes are a good idea, though it's possible to spend a nice day there on the shorter routes.
Many of these routes have only been climbed once. Expect loose rock and some dirt.
Follow the fire line from the parking area to the end of the ridge, heading East towards Bandelier. At the very end of the ridge, look for a break between two 15 foot tall rocks. A climber's trail drops into the canyon.
Climbing Season For the Capulin Canyon area.
Weather station 5.8 miles from here
55 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',18],['2 Stars',16],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',2]
Classic Climbing Routes in Main Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Main Cliff
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Main Cliff:
Physical 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches, 140'
Hellbender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Loctite 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, 2 pitches, 190'
Featured Route For Main Cliff
Lightning Road 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a New Mexico
: Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ...
: ... : Main Cliff
Lightning Road follows the obvious splitter on the right hand face of the Hellbender dihedral. The crack appears to terminate partway up the west face of the dihedral, but in fact it keeps going to a ledge. Important! The route is 215 feet to the ground. If you have a 60M rope, scramble to the large ledge up about 15 feet and belay from there (4th class). From the ledge, you can climb the left Hellbender start (10+ fingers) or the right start, which is a 5.7 handcrack. Both go to the base of the...[more] Browse More Classics in New Mexico
BETA PHOTO: Overview showing Stairway to Heaven, Hellbender, a...
BETA PHOTO: Overview of the routes in the Capulin Classic area...
BETA PHOTO: Route map to go with mini guide for the main wall....
BETA PHOTO: Page 3 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 2 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Page 1 of guide to main cliff.
BETA PHOTO: Main (lower) wall overview photo with routes marke...