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Main Cliff
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En Flagrante Bosch S 
Neighborhood, The T,S 
Spanky S 

Main Cliff Rock Climbing 


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Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 1969
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Description 

The Main Cliff will be easy to recognize, being a long continuous band of rock towering 100 to 200 ft above. It follows along the ridge line, descending South for well over a thousand ft and is disrupted by two large North facing corner systems. Look for the most striking features and more than likely the routes will be obvious. Many of these routes are two pitches in length. An obvious feature and reference point is the Wishbone, aka The Viper, that follows a thin trad crack to a convergent A-frame roof, route #5. A short way to the left is the super-crimpy and much shorter route Spanky, #8. As you hike the base of this crag the wall just becomes more and more awe inspiring with the clear potential to hold some of the most difficult climbing on the front range.

Getting There 

Hike South 400 to 500 ft from the first appearance of the large blocks and boulders that make up the North end of the crag. The main cliff band runs South from here. Near its end is a gully system that can be used to access the upper tier.

Climbing Season

For the Golden area.

Weather station 3.5 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Main Cliff

Spanky 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b  Colorado : Golden : ... : Main Cliff
Spanky was one of the first routes completed in the modern sweep through Ralston Buttes. Begin 100 or so feet right of and a bit down slope of the A-frame roof (The Viper, aka The Wishbone). While only 60 or so ft long, Spanky delivers enough cruxy climbing that its name is well deserved. It is hard off the deck and delivers several back to back 5.12- moves in the middle. The rock is a bit friable in places and very crimpy as well. An excellent technical problem in its own right, Spanky also off...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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