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Main Attraction 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 2,673
Submitted By: Ian McEleney on May 4, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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BETA PHOTO: Upper half of pitch 3 climbs the face in the upper...

Description 

P1: Climb a fun crack system in the corner. Build a gear anchor on the slightly smaller, slightly higher of a couple of ledges.

P2: Move right across the face and follow another crack system up to a roof. Pass the roof, continue up a fun face, and build another anchor on slabby ledges. The first two pitches can be linked.

P3: Climb the two cracks on the left side of the slab (left one's wide) to a ledge. Turn right and climb more fun cracks to the top. Four other routes (including D.M.Z.) could be alternate final pitches. Access these by moving right across a ledge.

The best descent is to make 3 rappels with from the anchors atop Freakshow, about 30 feet to the right. This can be done with one 60m rope. If you choose to walk off to the right there are a lot of loose rocks on ledges, take care not to knock them on to climbers below.

Location 

This is one of the first routes encountered after the approach trail drops you off at the cliff.

Protection 

Standard rack to #3 Camalot.


Photos of Main Attraction Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking straight up pitch one. Climb to the ledge ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking straight up pitch one. Climb to the ledge ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking straight up pitch 3. Climb the double crac...
BETA PHOTO: Looking straight up pitch 3. Climb the double crac...
Rock Climbing Photo: start of pitch 2. Nice crack before the more adven...
start of pitch 2. Nice crack before the more adven...

Comments on Main Attraction Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed P1 and P2 and then D.M.Z (which was great and looked WAY better than P3!).

P1 is straightforward, if at bit awkward. I built the belay after stepping down to the ledge below the finger crack of P2.

P2 is a fun adventure. After the finger crack head straight up over the mini-roof with the hand crack, through a wide section with some sketchy flakes for handholds and then pull around the sweet roof. A long pitch and I wouldn't recommend it for the brand new 5.8 leader. I built a top belay right below the wide base of D.M.Z, as there weren't too many options for anchors on the slabby top out.

Standard rack (nuts and doubles of cams to #3). I had a #4 and placed it.

I won't rush back to do this route, but I'd probably do it again to get to D.M.Z and Freakshow.
By Paisley Close
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 14, 2013

Two slings and a rap ring are currently at the top of P1 in case you don't want to do all three pitches. They look to be in pretty decent shape and are slung around a chockstone
By randy88fj62
Oct 14, 2013

Pitch one is amazing. The three pitches can be done in two with a 60m rope. Nice belay ledge for optional first belay when using your 60m rope.

If you do not make it to the top of pitch three then make sure to have some webbing and a rap ring. There are two bail stations with lots of tat and old webbing but they made need some fresh webbing when you get there.
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Portland, OR
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

From the slabby ledge belay above pitch 2, instead of finishing with the awkward third pitch to the left, you can go straight up DMZ or traverse around to the right for Freakshow. The traverse is a bit sketchy, but protects fairly well with 2-3" gear, which you should have anyway.
By timmaly
Jul 28, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Climbed this today and did the standard finish. Overall a really fun climb with some teriffic jamming. Thought P2 was a bit stiff for a 5.8. Opted for the 'walk off' and encountered two sections of fifth class down climbing in what is otherwise a large ledge.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 7, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

After climbing pitch 3 you can hit the rappel anchors that are 30-40 feet over to the right. One single rope rap brings you back to the slaby ledge that you can traverse left across to the base of D.M.Z.

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