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Maiden Misery 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeremy Collins, Jason Roy 12/07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 420
Submitted By: Jer Collins on Jan 21, 2008

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Description 

What!? A sport climb in the Hero Maker area!? Whoa! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you can now hike 4 minutes from your car with just a rack of draws, and enjoy the Hero Maker area.

This is the textbook definition of a "sleeper". From the ground you may be asking yourself "why"? It starts in a low angle, very lichen covered groove.

The climbing is gritty and interesting from the start, but no moves harder than 5.7. The slab above looks fourth class until you are on it and SAY, what's this? Interesting moves on low angle rock! Mantle up on the big horn, and head up to the base of the orange headwall, where the gritty stone turns to that hard, cracked stuff we are all looking for.

Suddenly the slab turns to slots and crimps as you finish up with a couple steep crux moves to finish you off. For extra enjoyment, mantle the top-out instead of leaning back on the anchors.

This route was Made in Missouri, as were it's first ascentionists.

Location 

100 yards around the corner right from "smoke in your eyes" is a low angle slab with an orange headwall at the top

Protection 

8 bolts, anchors


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By Jer Collins
Jan 21, 2008

As of january 08 the first bolt on this route is very suspect. The rock it is placed in is as soft as dry crusty oatmeal.

Hopefully by the time you get around to reading this, buying the new guidebook or finding it on your own, it will be replaced by a mega-length glue-in.

Until then, just don't fall on it, and or back it up with a medium sized cam to the left.
By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 25, 2008

A good, unsuspecting line. Collins is right, when he showed me Maiden Misery I was thinking to myself "you wasted bolts on this." But it's a fun little line that combines some slab footwork with a steep finish.
By Creed A
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 7, 2013

This is a fun line. As of June 2013, the first bolt is missing. Its just a hole in the rock. We climbed without it, and I don't think it necessarily needs replacing. As was mentioned, I think you could place a piece if you were concerned about those opening moves.
By Cole Rogers
From: SPRINGFIELD,MO
Nov 21, 2016

as of 11/21/16 the first bolt is still missing but a #1 or #.75 cam protects the opening move

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