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Mai Pen Rai 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
Page Views: 1,924
Submitted By: Ryan Kelly on Jul 30, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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View from the top of this climb

Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>


Start on a ledge 10 feet above a pit that lies almost at sea level. Clip the first bolt before you even start – you’ll see why. Although the guidebooks give this a 5.10b/c the first 15 feet or so are thin, very thin for a 10b. It’s all there though, and very well protected. Find the feet, step left over the chasm, and start working up towards the next bolt. By the time you clip your third bolt, it eases up considerably and you get to just cruise up and take in the view: the red walls, green plants, blue waters, and white sands of Thailand. It is a great climb, 4/5 stars for sure, but with the ambiance I give it 5/5.


Once you enter The Defile, you will find Mai Pen Rai on the red wall on your right. The route starts on a ledge 10 feet above a pit almost at sea level. To your right should be a sloping hill going further right and up, out of The Defile. Fairly obvious, the route ascends up and works left over a couple of flake-type tuffas to a shared anchor. As of summer 07, it was the only of the routes on the wall with titanium bolts.


All retro-bolted with new titanium single pieces, and well protected. Still, this route sits over the water, so the usual should be said: all bolts are suspect.

Photos of Mai Pen Rai Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mai pen rai
Mai pen rai
Rock Climbing Photo: The green rock at the left of the picture is the s...
BETA PHOTO: The green rock at the left of the picture is the s...

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By Paul H
From: Pennsylvania
May 7, 2014

A little thinking needed at the bottom, a jug haul at the top - and then an amazing view to finish it all off at the top.
By Gordon Larsen
From: St. George, Utah
Mar 16, 2016

Fun climb with an amazing view at the top. Well worth the hassle of timing it with the low tide.

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