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The Pillar of Thoth
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Magus 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Mike Strassman, Jackie Carroll
Page Views: 243
Submitted By: Orphaned on Mar 9, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Climbing in the afternoon sun

Description 

Mostly moderate climbing to a crux reaching the last bolt and then getting established on the flake.

Location 

Climbs the center of the pillar.

Protection 

6 bolts


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Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Magus
Starting up Magus

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By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Somewhat contrived at the top where the routes collide. You could force the grade by staying in the middle area, but literally 7 inches away are good holds on either side of the "line".

Fun enough if you don't care what route you climbing/encroaching on. Only the forced version is 5.11
By Randy in Ridgecrest
From: Inyokern, CA
Nov 8, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pretty light for a 5.11a, but, the traverse crux is 11a. If you climb the bolt line you will go into a logical crux sequence through the top 2 bolts - it's strict and there isn't any "bail" you could pretend is on route. The 11a variation is hard to read, and you could argue it's a bail, if you are a geometric purist. The obvious straightup variation at the last bolt is 11+ in the guides but I've yet to run into anyone that has pulled it.

It's not listed here but the bolted line to the left has a straightup 10a variation that's decent.

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