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The Throne
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Forgotten Passage T 
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Magnum P.I.  

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: P1: Milt Strickler, George Bracksieck, Kent ..., Sept. 19, 1975. P2 & P3: (?) M. Frichette, E. Aldrich, and I. Takahashi, 1980s
Season: faces West/Northwest. Afternoon sun.
Page Views: 201
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 8, 2012

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Ross leading P2. He has just climbed around the ea...

Description 

Done as a single pitch to the anchor, this is simply a good route that needs a little more brushing/cleaning. Done to the top of the rock, this is an adventure climb. The route description, rating, and gear are all accounting for that. If you can not abide by lichen, some minor runouts, wide sections, a little loose rock here and there, and some indistinct terrain, you'll hate it.

If you regularly do FAs or alpine routes, you likely won't notice or mind the detractors and might give it one more star than I did, so as to fall in the center of what might be highly polarized opinions about this route.

To climb this route:

P1. (5.9, PG-13, 90') Start just right of Petticoat and down and right of its P1 top anchor. Start up on double cracks with join after a short while, then step left into a crack with a flake in it (crux, a noisy flake), and delicately climb past into thin hands jams and better protection. Climb this more enjoyable crack for a while on good rock and protection... before it degrades into a lichenous and slightly more difficult to protect affair. If the second would bring a brush or scraper, this whole affair could be made nicer in the future. Climb to the ledge directly or place protection and carefully step left to finish the last few feet as for 'Thunderstruck' and go to the Thunderstruck / Petticoat anchors and belay. There will be rope drag if you try to continue, but it is possible and with correct rigging of the rope, reasonable to do P2 as part of P1.

P2. (5.8+, 80', PG-13): Ascend a few shallow cracks and seams up a rib of rock left of the obvious gully. The climbing is easy for the first 60'. As a large protrusion on the buttress to the right appears, step right past some bushes and into some flakes and make your way past #3 Camalot and a 1/2" cam (green Alien?) through some funky 5.8+ stuff an onto a sloping ledge. A belay comes from one each 2, 2.5, and 3" cams.

Do not skip this belay.

P3. (5.9+, 130' PG-13): From the belay, work out and right past a horizontal (good pro) and into a corner just out of view. Pass an old raven's nest (2' stick pile), and place a 5" cam overhead and out right. Make sure it is solid. Now climb a 'classic' 5.9+ section of rock that will likely be rattly fists, or stacks, to reach through the roof and up into... the offwidth. If you brought a #5 C4 Camalot, get that out and start using it. If you didn't... well, it's only 5.8 O.W.

Climb up and onward. You can finish either left of the gully, or right of it. Protection and climbing moves either way are moderate.
From the top left, a short section of climbing (belay recommended for both parties) reaches the anchor that the right finish goes directly too, although by a wandering path.

To descend:

1) Rap directly off of the back of the rock from the sling anchor (length unknown) and bushwhack back to the base somehow.

2) Rap Westward from the sling anchor (newly replaced 4/2012) for 34 meters (a 70m rope is really recommended) to a good ledge that is considerably west of the initial rap. The rope pulls easily to here. A 5 meter section of 3rd class takes you down and Eastward to a second sling/horn rap (newly replaced as of 4/2012). Rap down that for 35 meters (70m rope REQUIRED) into a deep and mossy gully to a bushy shelf. Pull the rope there and downclimb 4 meters of 5.4 to the ground proper. You are 40 meters West of the base of the climb now.

Location 

This route starts just right of Petticoat in a crack system, perhaps 6 meters to the right.

Protection 

The first pitch goes on stoppers and cams from small to 2.5". The upper pitches require filling out the rack to at least 4.5" (old school #4 Camalot, or better yet, a new #5 "C4"). A piece wider still is optional and actually a good idea if you don't like running out 5.8+ OW. Take lots of slings.

In case the anchors are aged, or you get off route on the descent, also take 20' of cordalete or webbing and a knife to replace/back-up/supplement the existing anchors. We replaced the completely rotten slings up top with a single cord on 4/7/12, but that will need backed up as it ages.

A 70m rope is NECESSARY for the raps as we did them, back to the NW base.


Photos of Magnum P.I. Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross is on the ledge at the base of the summit blo...
Ross is on the ledge at the base of the summit blo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross leading pitch three.  He continued straight u...
Ross leading pitch three. He continued straight u...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross just below the belay from a slung block, at t...
Ross just below the belay from a slung block, at t...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ross leading pitch one of Magnum PI.
Ross leading pitch one of Magnum PI.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Raven's Nest (?) under the crux roof on P3 of ...
The Raven's Nest (?) under the crux roof on P3 of ...

Comments on Magnum P.I. Add Comment
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By Ross Swanson
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 31, 2016
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I rated this climb 4 stars, because the climbing of P1 is really good on double cracks, step left to join left crack mid-way up. Do not go to the anchors on petticoat, instead near the top go right, continue to the crack end. Take extra finger-size pro.

For P2, going around the "ear" feature was interesting, the climbing gets easier after that.

A short crack on east face at top of P3 was 5.9 but too short.

Three long raps on a 70m down the north face into the gully was tedious, we installed two stations, in all three the rope pulled well.

I recommend just leading P1 then walking down to Petticoat anchors and rapping.
By George Bracksieck
Oct 31, 2016

Yesterday, Ross led me up Magnum PI, climbing variations to the second and third pitches. He finished the first pitch just a meter or two right of an old bolt and belayed a meter or more higher, on the right, from a bombproof sling around a solid block. This block is four or five meters above the pair of modern bolts atop Petticoat. This pitch was about 120 feet long.

This same block is where Milt Strickler belayed me and a guy named Kent up said first pitch, after Milt led it, on Sept. 19, 1975 — before cams were available. From here, we three toproped what is now the lower two-thirds of Petticoat, before following the squeeze chimney (the upper third of Thunderstruck) to our sling placed around the same block. We rapped from it when finished. I think that we did the FA of pitch one of what is now called Magnum PI.

The second pitch that Ross and I did is at least 130 feet long, not 80, even when starting from the block that is five meters above the Petticoat bolted anchor. Our third pitch began on a big ledge and went straight up easy wide cracks into a gully. At the top of the gully, hard moves up a short, vertical wall with a short, right-angling crack gained a ledge around the easternmost blunt summit block. This strenuous, vertical section on the east side of the easternmost tower provided good movement and felt like 5.10 to me.

A single cordelette containing two rolled-aluminum rap rings was wrapped once around the summit block. Because it looked and felt old and weathered (there since 4/12?) and there were no other anchor materials in place, we removed it and doubled it as part of the long extension of a knot that I jammed in a good nut placement at the top of a vertical crack. We lost one of the rings, so we had to trust the other, which we extended to reach over the edge.

In a sea of jumbled blocks, about 30m down, I found a sort of thread for a cord sling. From it, we rapped 35m, to the end of the ropes, into the top of a grassy gully. Below, slippery grass tugged us toward a drop-off of unknown proportions. I jammed a knot in a good nut placement, and we rapped over loose blocks and an overhanging boulder problem, to the ground, about 40m west of where we started climbing.

BTW Gillett states: "a bolted rappel station is installed on the middle [blunt] tower." The middle tower appeared to be the highest and, therefore, the true summit of the Throne. Because of the variation Ross led on pitch three, we ended up on top of the easternmost tower.
By George Bracksieck
Nov 1, 2016

Clever route name. However, we saw zero poison ivy all day. Perhaps the 2013 flood eliminated it from the river bank and the gully. We avoided the gully by mostly following the ridge to its right, as suggested by Gillett's guidebook and MP.

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