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Magnum Force 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Greg Dexter, Jay Smith, 1977.
Page Views: 1,252
Submitted By: Blitzo on Mar 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16)
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Will Sicke at the crux of Magnum Force.

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is the crack to the right of "Main Lline".
Do the first moves of "Main Line", then move right, into the crack. The crux is above a small roof.


Pro to 1.5"

Photos of Magnum Force Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Will Sicke on Magnum Force.  The crack to his left...
Will Sicke on Magnum Force. The crack to his left...

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By 426
Mar 8, 2007

I always felt the crux was the savage boulder problem (for 10b) at the very bottom....kinda like T-Wall, the "first 10 feet" don't seem to count...
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jun 4, 2007

Good route. It is a little crusty (but maybe because it's early in the season?) and my partner broke off a small dike while leading. Also, there is a very loose horn about 2/3 of the way up, just below the roof. It looked like it was rooted pretty well, but I don't think it would take too much to send it, bigger than a football. Take care. It is inviting, but easily avoided. I don't think it would change the grade if it gets trundled.

We didn't use any gear bigger than #1 camalot, doubles of small cams was nice. But, the anchor situation isn't the greatest, we used bigger cams for that up at the base of arctic breeze.

Opening boulder problem pretty delicate...
By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

That thing has always been crusty, Dave. I thought it was pretty hard too!
By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Jul 10, 2011

no doubt! Just did it again... still crusty and that bouldery start is still vicious. Got a cramp in my neck right after I did the mantle!
By Evan Riley
From: San Francisco, CA
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

This thing would be great if it was climbed/cleaned up more. Some gardening may be required. Boulder problem is tough, protects well with a blue and purp TCUs.
By Michael Dom
From: Seattle
Sep 29, 2016

Haha, sandbagged 10b but fun. The hardest part was the tiny crack at the beginning. I didn't see any anchors at the top so I made an anchor out of a .75 bd and an orange metolius.

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