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Magnetic North 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 420'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: TL KB 2010
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,167
Submitted By: brian benedon on Jun 10, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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Greg K on P-3


This route is; one short pitch, two long pitches and one more short pitch. You can do the start of the .9 to avoid the first belay.

the first bolt is shared with the 1 p 5.9, right of this one. after the first bolt, continue up and left, then chimney up into a notch, belay at 2 bolts. p2 hop up onto boulder, clip and step across, work up to big holds 8+, then cruz up easier ground, belay at 2 bolts, or step left and belay on rock bench with a tie though sling or med cam.( from here you can top rope the 5.10 wide crack )
P3 joins Mystery Route Center for a move, then heads up the face right of the old trad line for a full pitch, belay at 2 bolts. P4 climbs a short face to the summit which has belay bolts on the south side, and rap bolts on the north side, over the edge. I do not know who put these rap bolts in.

Scramble down the west side back to your packs


right of Mystery Route Center, Wilderness of Rocks Dome


all bolts

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Rock Climbing Photo: Tony on his route Magnetic North
Tony on his route Magnetic North

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