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Magnetic North 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Yvonne Gaines
Season: East facing
Page Views: 241
Submitted By: Andy Laakmann on Apr 14, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

Shares the first bolt with Technicolor Yawn.

Start directly above a yucca on the right side of the wall and head up to the first bolt. A #2 camalot can be placed in a hole to protect these moves if you don't want to risk landing in the yucca! Make an awkward 5.9 move up and then step left into the groove. Gear is available here. Continue straight up the water groove to the next bolt. Polished stemming takes you up directly to below the next bolt. I couldn't reach the bolt from the logical stance, but a small nut placed up and right protects the stand-up move to clip the bolt. Make fun face moves (10a) up to the third bolt. From here, head straight up to the fourth bolt on easy terrain and then finally traverse left to the fixed anchors. I suspect this upper bolt was placed specifically to protect the follower and it is a very good idea to clip it.

My partner and I both felt this route was more fun and slightly more difficult than its neighbor, Technicolor Yawn (graded harder in the guide).

Take care, as there is a death block in the final traverse just waiting to fall off!

Protection 

Nuts and one set of cams from TCU to #2 camalot. Safe route, provided you are comfortable on Josh slab.


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By Murf
Apr 16, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

This and Technicolor Yawn are the best on the crag.
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 30, 2011

Okay I can't speak as a leader on this one but as I was the designated cleaner. That said, Andy's comment about the last bolt being superfluous seemed off to me. Finishing the slab moves were the most difficult of the climb. Low angle yes, but very awkward. As a leader, I wouldn't be able to clip that fast enough!

~Sooze

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