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The Alcove
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Magma 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dave Bingham & Pokey Amory
Page Views: 112
Submitted By: Michael May on Aug 15, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Zach approaching the chains on Magma

Description 

Steep with many difficult sections. Less than obvious line that requires climbing out of the bolt line at times.First sport route at Dierkes.

Protection 

8 bolts to chains


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By CHopwood
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 1, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This is a great route! In the Right side of the Alcove. Easily identifiable as the only route with chains on the actual canyon rim. There is one new set of chains and one old set, side-by-side. There is also a piton driven into a crack between the first and second bolt. Three cruxy roofs await you on this adventure. Lieback out the first one and savor your one and only rest as you sit on top of it. The next roof is v-roof that you cut feet and blast straight through. The technical crux is on the next face. Difficult crimps, stems, gastons, and pockets will get you to the underside of roof three. I found this section pretty uninspiring and too wander-ey, otherwise I would definitely give this route 4 stars. From the underside of the 3rd roof, step around the edge and a few more large moves between big holds will get you to the chains. After the first roof, the route is incredibly sustained with little to no places to rest. The pump is the real crux and it continues to build until you clip the chains. I think it is a solid 12a. Enjoy!
By Raddam6
Jun 16, 2016

I really wanted this route to be 12a, as I onsighted it. i have been close to onsighting a handful of 12a, but haven't managed. This one I felt may warrant the 12a rating based on the difficulty of the moves at the first roof, but I am in absolute disagreement with the first commenter as to the degree of sustain. I felt that excellent rests were to be found after each hard section. Good fun. I rate it to be 11d/12a.