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Stepping Stones
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Contortionist's Pleasure T,S 
Cruisin for Neo's T,TR 
El Barrio 
El Gallito S 
Gravel Pilot T,TR 
Magie Noire S 
Pinche Guey S 
Québec Connection T,S 
Stepping Stones T 
Turkey Neck Direct S,TR 
Unknown S 
Unknown Variation S 
Warlock Pinche S 
Warlock Pinchers S,TR 

Magie Noire 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Bruno Haché, Pebby Johns
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer AM, late PM
Page Views: 1,228
Submitted By: Bruno Hache on Aug 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Mica, Bruno's fathful & loyal companion, taking a ...

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  • Description 

    The start is bouldery in nature. Although rock quality is questionable, this route offers nice powerful and sustained face moves all the way up to the crux at 4th and 5th bolt. Worth 3 stars but deserves only 2 stars due to rock quality. Body positioning and precise slopy smearing is key to a successful ascent.

    Location 

    Walk west after the Nip and Tuck pull out, walk across the guard rail on your right, pass the El Barrio boulder cave, then go up the short loose talus. This is the Stepping Stones crag. Past the Quebec Connection dihedral, Magie Noire is the obvious, black streak on the left, at the right edge of the pile of overhanging, stacked blocks.

    Protection 

    7 bolts and a top anchor.


    Photos of Magie Noire Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Pebby approaching the crux moves.
    Pebby approaching the crux moves.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Bruno installing the 3rd bolt.
    Bruno installing the 3rd bolt.
    Rock Climbing Photo: The route with the rope and quickdraws in place.
    BETA PHOTO: The route with the rope and quickdraws in place.

    Comments on Magie Noire Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Kevin Neilson
    From: Boulder
    May 21, 2012

    Fun moves. I found this easier than the 5.11s to the left (Turkey Neck Direct and El Gallito). Make sure to avoid the seemingly out-of-place bolt to the left--this bolt is for the Warlock Pincers / Pinche Guey linkup. The upper half of the route is shared with Warlock Pincers. I thought the rock quality was good.
    By George Bracksieck
    Jul 6, 2013

    The opening moves over a bulge are fun. However, when you look down from above, you see that the whole 5-by-6-foot bulge has a crack going all the way around it. If it were to come off onto a climber yarding on it, it would be the big pancake.

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