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Magician 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 350'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a R [details]
FA: Iain Allan, Ian Howell
Page Views: 80
Submitted By: BigRed11 on May 9, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Topo

Description 

Feel the magic.

1. Up into the tree.

2. Out right, up good cracks, to a sloping belay ledge on the right.

3. Traverse back left around a few corners to the large pale corner with pins and flakes.

4. Up this unlikely-looking corner, placing marginal gear and clipping old pins. Crux moves are getting across the blank face to a belay ledge on the left. I won't ruin the fun, but look all around you to find the right sequence.

Location 

Up through the obvious white tree. Walk off to the campsite on the left side of Main Wall

Protection 

Standard rack + micronuts


Photos of Magician Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Steeeeep, just getting into the crux.
Steeeeep, just getting into the crux.

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By Iain Allan
Mar 29, 2017

Only 3 stars??? I think this is a bit mean! Ian Howell and I made the first ascent of this route in the mid-70s, and I have repeated it many times since. I think it is one of the best routes on the Main Wall.


Iain Allan
Nairobi, 2017

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