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The Pinnacle
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Magical Branding Iron 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 678
Submitted By: saxfiend on May 31, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Overshadowed by other great lines on the Pinnacle, Magical Branding Iron doesn't get much traffic. It's a fun route nevertheless, with a reachy overhanging section that will get your attention before the climbing eases off.

Starting below a large flaring crack about 20' off the deck, surmount a ledge and climb the face below the crack. This quickly becomes overhung; pull through the steep sequence and into the flaring crack. Cruise the crack the rest of the way to the top.

Location 

Starts about 10' right of Crack a Smile, below an obvious large crack. Rap from Standard Route bolted anchors.

Protection 

Plentiful placements for mostly medium gear, but a couple of bigger cams can be useful in places. Build a gear anchor.


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By Jason Eberhard
From: Atlanta, GA
6 days ago
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun route as I'm getting more comfortable on trad. One difficult move that is is very easy to protect. There are new bolted anchors between this and Logan's Run to the climbers right. Built an anchor there for a fun top rope on the face in between the two.

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