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Wizard Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Christal Ball S 
Crack T 
Driven Like the Snow T 
Magic Wand S 
Right Arete T 
Ruff T,TR 
Snow Crash S 
Two in the Bush T,TR 
Uncertain Fates T 
Wave Yer Wand T 
Way of the Wizard S 
Wide Jadodat T 
Wizard Shuffle T,TR 

Magic Wand 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Rossiter, et al.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 212
Submitted By: Ray Snead on Jun 1, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (14)
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BETA PHOTO: Wizard Rock. The four bolted sport routes are sho...

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  • Description 

    Right of Christal Ball is a wide crack - climb the rounded arete to the right of this.


    9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

    Photos of Magic Wand Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Wand.
    Magic Wand.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Close to midway.
    Close to midway.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Wand.  A good, well-bolted moderate sport le...
    BETA PHOTO: Magic Wand. A good, well-bolted moderate sport le...

    Comments on Magic Wand Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 7, 2003

    A fun route. It can be identified by a small pine tree growing out of the rock about 50' up, just right of the climbing line.

    One correction: there are 9 bolts on the route; not 6. The route description on Richard Rossiter's website ( also has this error.
    By shad O'Neel
    Aug 10, 2004
    rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    I felt this line went at about 5.6+ (felt easier than say, Calypso), and this is staying within 12 inches of the bolts to the left or right. I guess you could make it harder, but there is a fairly easy path of least resistance in line with the bolts. It is very well bolted, and would be a great, early lead for a beginning climber.
    By percious
    From: Bear Creek, CO
    Jul 3, 2009
    rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

    Fun, but I could not find the 5.8 move on this one.
    By Corinne McKay
    Jul 15, 2010

    Fun route, great views from the top and well bolted for the 5.8 leader.
    By mrbiscoop
    Sep 24, 2011

    Another fun route.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Jul 5, 2013
    rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

    This is a fun route, but I did not find a 5.8 move. I think it is a 5.7.

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