Mike Arechiga on, Hocus Pocus Arete.5.10b
A beautiful wall with a great concentration of sport routes from 5.9 to 11.d Some routes are purely clipping while others require a few pieces of added gear. Overall a fabulous collection of routes and a must visit area if you are visiting the Chilkoot lake area.
Walk the north end of the lake till you find a large clearing/ campsite with a fire ring about 200 feet from the lake. There is a trail that leads up the hillside left of some slabs, well marked by cairns. Follow the broken trail towards the hidden large walls to the right and work your way up and right passing Quarter Day dome and Christmas Wall finally ending up at the Magic wall. A good landmark if you find yourself bush whacking is the striking plated arete that is " Hocus Pocus Arete" which divides the west and south wall of the Magic Wall... Another landmark would be a massive dead tree about 30 feet tall that sits 15 feet fro the main/south wall.
Climbing Season For the Shuteye Ridge area.
Weather station 12.8 miles from here
5 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Magic Wall