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Magic Tricks  

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V7-8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Andy Bowen
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Andy Bowen on Nov 12, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The rail. You'll feel your weight pulling back, ju...

Description 

Everything is tiny, the last right foot/toe dime hold just before the "dyno" is the worst but provides enough to make the huge move to the finger rail 7-8 feet up from there :)

Location 

This is just left of Young Lust, in the Pink Floyd area.

Protection 

Pad and dudes.


Photos of Magic Tricks Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Quickly get those feet up, great smears and a ledg...
Quickly get those feet up, great smears and a ledg...
Rock Climbing Photo: The set up. No feet, well they are there, but you ...
The set up. No feet, well they are there, but you ...

Comments on Magic Tricks Add Comment
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By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Dec 28, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

This is a good line and certainly going to be height-dependent and more dynamic the shorter you are. The move is a huge, 6 foot span deadpoint/subtle dyno for me at 5'11" with a +5, and I think the grade is approximately V7. Generating the movement off of the left triangle edge pinch and bumping to the right crimp/gaston and then setting feet for the huge move is the business. This route demands precise technique, crimp strength, and power.
By Andy Bowen
From: Grand Junction, CO
Dec 29, 2014

Thank you for the feedback, Jared! I thought 9 might be too much, but a few "locals" told me it was as hard as their V10 near it (I wonder if they had really finished any of these "harder" lines). I thought "no way" and settled at 9 but feel much more of a V7-8 flag is best. So, thank you for the feedback! Helps me nail down better ratings.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Dec 30, 2014
rating: V7 7A+

Hey Andy,

As an admin, thanks for posting the route. It's a good line, between two other good lines. I tend to compare routes I have done across the country that are standards for the grade and then correlate similar movement. Either way, like I said, it climbs well and reminds me of My 15 Minutes, a V7 at Hueco Tanks on the closed Mushroom Boulder. Out of curiosity, PM me, which problem did someone say was V10? Also, if you want to head out bouldering and have me show you some lines that you might enjoy, just send me a message.

Jared
By Eric Carlos
From: GJ
Mar 12, 2016
rating: V7-8 7B

For someone who is 5'6", it is a huge dyno off of the left sidepull crimp. To me, it felt V7-8.

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