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Gheralta Range Koraro Spires
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Magic Smelly Poodle T 
Tewlihe ("The Sharp One") S 

Magic Smelly Poodle 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13 [details]
FA: Niels Tietze, Nicojah, Mathiue Spiderman, Captain Habesha
Page Views: 317
Submitted By: nicojah Parco on Jan 4, 2014

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This line goes up around to the back of smaller to...

Description 

Approach: Hike up the gully going up the right side of the tower.

After scrambling, you reach P1, the first section of vertical rock, here rope-up is recommended but not completely necessary. Climb 15-20m and you reach a long obvious chimney with a dead end.

The next pitch (P2) starts at the end of the chimney. Climb up the chimney and to an superb obvious handcrack up to an alcove.

P3: Climbs out of the alcove up and to climber's right until you reach a big ledge. Short pitch.

P4: The crux pitch. Follows face and crack climbing to the top of the tower. The rock is less reliable on this pitch... crux at the top below the tower's summit.

Should be some gear on the tower to rap off.

Read about this climb and two others in Gheralta Valley here: nicoparco.com/ethiopia-rock-cl...

Location 

These towers are located about 10km before the Koraro Spires on the same road out of Megab leading to Koraro and beyond in the heart of Tigray ahd the Gheralta Massif.

The Abuna Yemata Church is possibly the most visited church in the valley.

Magic Smelly Poodle is located on the backside (relative to your approach) of the smaller (on the left) of the two towers at Abuna Yemata Guh.

Have a local to negotiate with priests who will want to charge you to climb the tower the same price as visiting the church (100 birr per person). In theory you shouldn't pay... but if you do, make sure you go visit the church next door. It's worth it.

Protection 

Gear: singles of .3-.5 , doubles to #3. Nuts.


Photos of Magic Smelly Poodle Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Smaller Abuna Yemata Tower!
The Smaller Abuna Yemata Tower!
Rock Climbing Photo: climber on P4. starts off in a crack and goes to f...
climber on P4. starts off in a crack and goes to f...
Rock Climbing Photo: bottom of P4 on the big ledge
bottom of P4 on the big ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: P2/ the handcrack that leads to the alcove
P2/ the handcrack that leads to the alcove
Rock Climbing Photo: P2/ the chimney to the handcrack
P2/ the chimney to the handcrack

Comments on Magic Smelly Poodle Add Comment
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By James Garrett
Sep 13, 2016

This route recently saw a probable second ascent by Niels who again led everything and Timmy O'Neill. Neither felt it was PG, even R is a stretch.... X seems to be more appropriate. A few of us watched from afar from Abuna Yemata. No bolted anchors necessitated a more complicated and time consuming descent than ascent. Sounds pretty scary:)!
By nicojah Parco
From: Addis Ababa, Ethiopia
Sep 14, 2016

Oh wow! Thanks for the update. It's hard to believe he did that onsight and pulled us, his three devoted fans, to the top. I can't wait to hear more about it. Whenever people ask me about climbing in Gheralta, I send them to that tower. I thought with the right gear including some large cams it could be protected

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