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Magic Mushroom 

YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a A3

Type:  Trad, Aid, 31 pitches, 2900', Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.14a French: 8b+ Ewbanks: 32 UIAA: X+ ZA: 32 British: E8 7a A3 [details]
FA: 1972 Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton
Season: Best time fall or spring
Page Views: 7,076
Submitted By: Mike Fogarty on Mar 6, 2014

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Mike Fogarty & Tracy Dorton El Capitan, Mammoth T...

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


I had the pleasure of climbing this with Troy Johnson and Tracy Dorton in of all times, August 1984
This was as I was told an early ascent. We spent 4 nights on the wall. This route is longer and more sustained than the Shield. The route is in some deep flaring awkward corners with lots of left handed nailing as I recall. The Mushroom is a classic, fun climbing, deluxe bivey ledges and the most direct route through the Shield headwall, with no crowds.

First Ascent: Hugh Burton & Steve Sutton 05/72
VI, 5.10;A4 31 pitches
First free ascent, Tommy Caldwell & Jason Sjong
5:14 28 pitches


The approach is the same as The Nose but once at the base of the wall continue west till you come to Moby Dick (Moby Dick is a good alternate start for the route). This approach should take about 20 to 30 minutes with a haul bag.Plan on a fun 5 days and bring lots of water.


See Topo Photo.
.50 tri cam for hole on old A-4 section to Chicken head ledge. this is a must.
1 ea Peckers (3 total)
2 ea Wire Rivet Hangers
2 ea Keyhole Rivet Hangers
6 Knifeblades
2 ea Angles 1/2", 5/8"
2 ea Sawed Angles 1/2"-1 1/2"
10 Black Diamond Lost Arrow Pitons (mostly #2 and #3)
2 ea Hooks (3 total)
2 Narrow Cam Hooks
1 Wide Cam Hook
1 set of Black Diamond Stoppers
1 set of DMM Peenuts
1-2 sets of Offset Brass Nuts
2-3 sets of Aliens
2 sets of Offset Aliens
3 ea of Black Diamond Camalots #0.75-3
1 ea Black Diamond Camalots #4-6
1 60m x 10.5 mm Lead Rope
1 60m x 8mm Static Rope
12 Black Diamond Oz Quickdraws
40 extra Lightweight Biners
12 Shoulder Length Slings

Photos of Magic Mushroom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tracy Dorton pitch 24 second pendulum A2 Photo: Mi...
Tracy Dorton pitch 24 second pendulum A2 Photo: Mi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Head wall, kinda steep:) Mike Fogarty on sharp end...
Head wall, kinda steep:) Mike Fogarty on sharp end...
Rock Climbing Photo: Route line
BETA PHOTO: Route line
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo

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