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Magic Marker 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jacobs and Engle 80's
Page Views: 71
Submitted By: Jon Marek on Oct 11, 2012

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BETA PHOTO: Inner Marker is the right formation with the huge,...

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Description 

Magic Marker is the beautiful looking crack on the west face of the Inner Marker, unfortunately the climbing and rock quality can only be enjoyed by some kinds of people. The climb begins (i think) in the cool chimney behind the flake on terrible rock up to two bolts, the first bolt being at about 35 feet. Then into the wide crack that climbs easily with basic technique, but poor rock quality might make some placements dubious. Try to avoid rope drag (good luck) over the two bulge/constrictions. The route finishes on an easy slab run-out through the final thirty feet after the crack terminates.

Location 

Obvious west crack on Inner Marker. Easiest approach is from the road about 100 feet north of the Emancipation parking, scramble up the small gully between middle marker and inner marker. Route has a nice big flat area behind the big flake.

Protection 

Big gear and long runners. Massive rope-drag potential on this route. Be prepared for run-out sections in the beginning, middle, and end. Terrible rock quality.


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