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(g) Morning Glory Wall
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Magic Light Start 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
Page Views: 1,793
Submitted By: Nathan Scherneck on May 10, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Direct Shot of Magic Light

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


This is the popular first pitch of the two pitch route Magic Light. It shares the first few bolts with Overboard, but veers left where Overboard goes right. Lots of good holds with a couple crux traverses makes this a less than sustained Smith 11.


Right side of Morning Glory Wall



Photos of Magic Light Start Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Upper crux due to pump - 1st pitch
BETA PHOTO: Upper crux due to pump - 1st pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Light looking up
BETA PHOTO: Magic Light looking up
Rock Climbing Photo: Funnest move on the route
Funnest move on the route
Rock Climbing Photo: Nick Wohlers | Magic Light Start
Nick Wohlers | Magic Light Start
Rock Climbing Photo: last part of lower magic
last part of lower magic
Rock Climbing Photo: below crux; balance move going out left
below crux; balance move going out left

Comments on Magic Light Start Add Comment
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By Ben Broche
From: San Francisco, CA
Aug 14, 2015
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Great route, and tricky onsight for 5.11- would probably be .11b/c at basically any sport climbing area in the country other than Smith.
By PaulyK
From: Redmond, OR
Nov 14, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Excellent moves, fun, challenging for me, love this pitch!
By Jayson Nissen
From: Corvallis, OR
Jan 27, 2016

I pulled a bail draw off the first bolt of this route on 1/26/16. If you want it back identify it and let me know. I'd also like to know why it was hanging on the first bolt.

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