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Magic Flute T 
Middle Dihedral T 

Magic Flute 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 700'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 895
Submitted By: Matt N on May 9, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Hmm...

Description 

P1 – 3 bolts, the 3rd is located just above the prominent rock scar and small (~18”) “roof”. We started farther right near a left-facing dihedral, then traversed left (after downclimbing) when the first bolt was finally spotted. Unsure of direct start difficulty. 2nd bolt hanger was damaged from rockfall (presumably the scar directly above, between bolts 2/3, which altered the route). We traversed directly left from bolt 2 to an arête, then up a flake (gear), passing left of the third bolt (now skipped) to the belay. (5.7, ~160-190’ depending on route taken)

P2 – 5 bolts, fairly straightforward (5.8, ~180’)

P3 – gear, we trended left, then back right (other options exist). Bolted belay is directly above P2 belay (5.7, ~180’)

P4 – gear, wander upwards, finding a gear belay when possible (5.6, ~180’)

100’ of 4th class to finish. Descent: walk climber’s right, then down the gully and back to the base or road. First 3 pitches have bolted belays. It is possible to rappel with two ropes – bring slings and rings, as needed, but the walk off isn’t bad. Route may be shaded by mid-afternoon.

Location 

Approach: park in pullout directly adjacent to the dome. Easy scramble up a rock gully, climber’s left of dome – 10min. Located on the left side of the dome, fairly close to the approach gully.

Protection 

Rack: draws, nuts, single set cams .4-2.5”
Buttonheads with SMC hangers for just about all bolts.


Photos of Magic Flute Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P1 - our wandering line and the varia...
BETA PHOTO: Looking down P1 - our wandering line and the varia...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approximate topo of P1. Red is assumed line, green...
BETA PHOTO: Approximate topo of P1. Red is assumed line, green...

Comments on Magic Flute Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 2, 2014

Can you comment on the fixed gear? Are they modern bolts?..Old-school scary-stuff? Thanks!
By Matt N
From: Santa Barbara, CA
Jun 3, 2014

Buttonheads with SMC hangers for just about all of them, IIRC.

Uploaded a pic, as I'd never seen a homestyled one of that ilk (see pic).
By Kent Rogers
From: Beaver, PA
Apr 25, 2016

Merlin Dome center: Abracadabra: five pitches of 5.8/9. Face and flake climbing, some run outs but not too scary. 2, 1/4" bolts with SMC hangers on p2.

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