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Brighton's Frighton Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fin Of Fear T 
Fret Arête S 
Magic Flakes T 
Rusty Blade T 
Scream Seam T 
Twinkie's Hatchet T 
Twinkies Hatchet West T 
Wedge, The T 
Worry Wart T 

Magic Flakes 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Mark Kadlec and Jason Shumaker
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 692
Submitted By: Jason Shumaker on Jun 24, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Location of MF

Description 

MF starts in a somewhat steep fingers to hands crack that takes tons of gear and reveals cool moves. Use the positive and solid flake at the top to pull the bulge. There are no chains at the top; set a natural anchor to lower or TR. You can breakdown the anchor and walk down a short gully back to the base.

Location 

This climb is located in the next gully to the east of the other climbs on the Brighton Frighton wall. Approach as normal to the Brighton Frighton wall passing by the girls camp to the boulder field. Head east instead of west up into the main gulley. This climb has a landmark 'magic' flake near the top.

Protection 

.5 to #3 Camalots and quickdraws. The top anchor will take a .3 and .4 Camalots and slings.


Photos of Magic Flakes Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thin and flaky goodness!
BETA PHOTO: Thin and flaky goodness!
Rock Climbing Photo: The 'Magic' Flake. It is fully attached and solid.
BETA PHOTO: The 'Magic' Flake. It is fully attached and solid.

Comments on Magic Flakes Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jason Shumaker
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jun 24, 2013

Try it...stress free!

By Alex Quitiquit
From: Salt Lake City
Jun 28, 2013

What did i just watch? and why... cool looking route though!

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