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Magic Fern 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Cal Folsom, Don Brooks
Page Views: 2,979
Submitted By: sqwirll on Apr 15, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Magic Fern (yellow) and Curious Poses (red)

2017 Seasonal Raptor Closure: UTW from waterfall to Golden Arch MORE INFO >>>


A bouldery start leads to a right-traversing finger crack with good knobs for the feet. Continue up the wide left leaning pillar. From the top of the pillar, continue straight up (5.10) or out left (5.9).


Approximatley 50' left of Battered Sandwich.


Gear to 3" with an optional 4" piece. Slung block at the top of the pillar with rap rings for anchor or continue to the top and rap off a a bolted anchor.

Photos of Magic Fern Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The route follows the right leaning crack up to th...
BETA PHOTO: The route follows the right leaning crack up to th...
Rock Climbing Photo: Magic Fern goes right, Curious Poses goes left.
BETA PHOTO: Magic Fern goes right, Curious Poses goes left.
Rock Climbing Photo: I recommend crack gloves :/
I recommend crack gloves :/
Rock Climbing Photo: The fun finish to Magic Fern. If you rap from the ...
BETA PHOTO: The fun finish to Magic Fern. If you rap from the ...

Comments on Magic Fern Add Comment
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Apr 15, 2008

We excavated this route on 3/22/08. We climbed it on 4/11 and there is now a lot of loose dirt that needs to wash out of the cracks or it may need additional cleaning.
By Eric8
From: Maynard, MA
Apr 19, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The route actually continues to the top of the cliff. Although benign looking SVR lists this section as 5.9. I found it to be harder than any of the 10a's on the ltw. The crux was moving out of a short chimney into a tight hand crack with bad feet.

Its still possible to rappel with a 60m rope from the top of Istanbul. This is a bolt and sling anchor that did not have rap rings on the slings.
By NateF
From: Bend, OR
Oct 18, 2010

From the alcove with the sling rap station you can continue straight up (as described above), or move left then up. I found both options challenging for the grade. Going left is similar to Battered Sandwich, only more difficult. Going straight up is as difficult as it looks. Both options protect very well, and can be climbed from the ground to the top in a single pitch. Grades vary in the guides, but I'd say straight up is 5.10, to the left .9+
This topo ( calls the straight up option part of Curious Poses, 5.10.

Either way, very nice route & you'll reach a bolted anchor at the top with steel rap rings. A 60m gets you to the ground in one rap.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 28, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First ascent: Cal Folsom, Dan Brooks, 1984

Originally approached via the "3rd class" ramp on the right (now overgrown) the Curious Poses start is now used, the bouldery face/thin fingers on the left is described as 5.8 in both books.
Magic Fern then goes up the right side of above fin using hand jambs.
2nd pitch was the left side crack( like said above, both pitches can be done as one)

There is a SS rap station at top of 2nd pitch, 1) 60m rope works. .
By Nick Drake
From: Newcastle, WA
Jun 10, 2015

I put a new sling on the block 6-6-15. Crux is the start for sure, never did find feet to get the first move in, ended up just throwing a nut and a sling to get to the finger crack traverse.
By Matthew Tangeman
Aug 4, 2017

No midway anchor anymore as of July 2017.

Such a great little pitch! One of my favorite Index moderates.

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