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Magic Bus 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: ?? (bolted by: D'Antonio/Hand)
Season: it faces South
Page Views: 63
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 30, 2015

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  • Description 

    This is the hardest and best line at the crag and a good climb for about any venue. The crux is powerful and technical both at once.

    Climb up and left from a low point to reach the ledge and bolts down and right from the top of The Hand. Clip a few bolts on the balancy face to reach the roof. Clip another bolt, and then pull some opposition and compression moves to get into a thin finger slot left of the protruding block. Reach back right and oppose the lock with a good side-pull/undercling. Battle for balance again to get a foot up into a dish on the left, over the roof, then continue up very thin climbing past more bolts to the top of the crag.

    It is probably best to do this route in crisp weather or at least not in the sun in heat, as some holds are pretty small and sloping.

    Location 

    This route starts from the road climbing up and left on trad gear to reach a line of bolts just down and right of the top-anchor as for the route The Hand. The crux is pulling over and past a small roof along the way, using holds on both sides of the protruding block of rock.

    Protection 

    Bolts to a bolted anchor. Do a 100' rap to the ground.


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