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Pico da Tijuca
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Magia Vertical T 

Magia Vertical 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bruno Bastos Cruz, Carlos Costa Ribeiro Filho, Edgar Nobuo, Luiz Alberto, Marcello Ramos Samuel, Predrao Pranceviski on May 24, 1986
Page Views: 23
Submitted By: PortlandRob on Jul 2, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: Looking up pitch 2, the crux pitch

Description 

P1 (5.8): Start at the base of a left-facing dihedral. Lie back the first half of the pitch and then transition into optional face climbing on the outside of the dihedral (right side) higher up. After about 60 feet arrive at a good belay ledge with a single bolt on top of the dihedral.
P2 (5.11a): Balancey and powerful face climbing eases higher up leading to a two bolt anchor. All of the hard moves are well protected with bolts.
P3 (5.10): Easy 5.7/5.8 climbing leads to a delicate traverse right.
P4 (5.8): Begins with right traverse on 5.7 or 5.8 terrain to a bolt next to some small trees. Then some dirty and exposed 5.5/5.6 climbing leads to the final step and the trail to the summit of Pico da Tijuca.
Descend the trail.

Location 

Start at the obvious left-facing dihedral.
Descend the easy trail.

Protection 

Single rack for first pitch, bolt protected for pitches 2, 3, 4. May be possible to supplement bolted protection with gear on run-out sections.
There should be bolted anchors for each pitch, but I only climbed P1 and P2 and can only confirm that those two pitches have bolted anchors.


Photos of Magia Vertical Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from top of pitch 2 at the final easier...
BETA PHOTO: Looking up from top of pitch 2 at the final easier...
Rock Climbing Photo: The dihedral at the base of Magia Vertical
BETA PHOTO: The dihedral at the base of Magia Vertical

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