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Magellanic Cloud 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown, 1980s
Page Views: 2,680
Submitted By: Matt Faust on Mar 7, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Past the crux traverse on Magellanic Cloud and fac...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Start up the face just left of the Shady Ladies corner. Climb the left-facing, left-trending corner to a roof. Move right across face, then climb beautiful left-facing corners up to communal belay ledge.

Wonderful climbing on great rock.


Gear to #3 Camalot

Photos of Magellanic Cloud Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo of Rich climbing Magellanic Cloud taken from...
BETA PHOTO: Photo of Rich climbing Magellanic Cloud taken from...
Rock Climbing Photo: On route fun
On route fun
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbing the arete for the finish
Climbing the arete for the finish
Rock Climbing Photo: Side view of Magellanic Cloud
BETA PHOTO: Side view of Magellanic Cloud

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By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 12, 2007

I thought the traverse right across the face towards the roof was pretty scary. Definitely had a few 5.9 moves. You wouldn't want to fall at the crux, as doing so would land you into a potentially painful slab corner.
By Russ Walling
Feb 14, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

So so climb with some rope drag problems. Be sure to sling the crux nut or pay the price later. The moves are pretty easy for 5.9, with good holds after a huge rest. Anchor is a nice wad of slings along with a bolt. A few other routes share this same anchor, so be aware of how you clip it up if there is a crowd.
By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 23, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

I agree with Darshan that a crux fall would be painful, hence I gave the PG-13 rating. The protection is good up to that point, but swinging off the traverse would not be fun...
By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 10, 2008

you can protect the traverse by getting a solid #4 stopper ABOVE the bottom finger lock directly around the corner...but placing it is a little difficult. just come back down and rest after placing it
By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
Dec 29, 2010
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route has in my opinion a totally sketchy anchor at the top. There is one bolt which is of a style I have not seen before, and the other anchor point is a sling around a column that is now entirely cracked through at the top. I built my own anchor and only used the existing anchor to rap off of. I recommend bringing enough gear on this route to build your own top rope anchor.
By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A #4 camalot (or maybe something a little bigger) with an extender is great for protecting the roof for the traverse, although it requires you to downclimb just a little afterwards. Once I got the piece in with a double length sling, felt totally comfortable going for the traverse, which was a lot easier than I initially thought it was gonna be.
By Justin.Trayford
Oct 1, 2013

I found this sketchy. Onsite it or don't do it.
By mmacelhi
May 7, 2014
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

a great pitch of climbing. doubles are helpful but not needed. jugs, cracks, roofs, step outs. it has it all. in terms of the step out, yeah it is a bit exposed, but thats what makes it trad climbing rather than a gym. i thought it protected just fine
By bart cubrich 1
Jan 18, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I'd agree that the 5.9 moves a re a little spicy. You can also places a #2 or #3 slightly to to the left of where the crack takes a #4. I extended that piece with a double length sling and still had drag because I placed to early after the crux. Make sure to extend your next few pieces a good bit as well (single lengths were not enough), or run it out.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Nov 9, 2016

You can make the traverse much less scary by making a reachy .3 camalot placement in a small crack above and right of the large cam placements. You get a bomber 4 after the traverse and can gear in between these pieces also.

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