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Hueco: V1-2 Font: 5

Type:  Boulder, 12'
Original:  Hueco: V1-2 Font: 5 [details]
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: matthewWallace on Feb 10, 2010

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This is it climb the crack! Sorry about the poor ...


Start sitting at the base of the crack, put your left hand in the crack and right on a face crimp. Start with both feet in the crack, pull up moving you right hand up into the crack and work up the crack. Lift you left foot and heel hook the small rail just left of the crack, then pop up to better holds and finish up the crack. This part is extremely dirty and I will try to clean it up next time I am out there.


This route is an obvious overhanging crack just past the first highball boulder. Sit start with left hand in crack. Walk off the back side.

This route is below Monsters from the Id.


Pad, spotter, tape, Rumney cracks can be sharp :)

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By M Sprague
From: New England
Jan 30, 2011

I think I may have done the FA of this one, not completely sure though. Chris and Ward and Paula Smith, Steve Johnson, Dave Quinn, maybe Ed Esmond and I cleaned off and did a bunch of the cracks here a couple days when we were working on putting up routes. I never named it. Magdalena is a good name. There is a very good steep overhang to the right and back a bit from what is pictured here, with white bands of quarts running out it, that I scrubbed up and Dave Graham got the FA of (maybe V9) . It's highly recommended. After we did these and some more over left around the high arete, Dog Boy (Tim Kemple) and Eric Mushual put some problems up in between- some highball with bad landings.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jan 30, 2011

Is the steep overhang you speak of located on top of another boulder? Also if you remember any info please let me know I intend to explore this area more, and i will post things as I do them and if you could chime in on the info you know as I post them I would really appreciate it.

Also any info on the arete/face pictured in the photo I posted on the main page for this area? here is link to it: I am curious about the face Tim is climbing and the arete to his right?
By M Sprague
From: New England
Jan 31, 2011

Yes, the overhang is located back right, up off another boulder that makes a flat landing. I think Ward got the deep cave /layback/corner crack right? of this picture. He might remember a name and more info if you can get a hold of him. ( try through Quinn and I worked on the boulder with the tall arete, putting up 3 or 4 problems on it. I remember doing the FA of the line just right of the arete. I can't remember which of us got the arete first. I remember doing a crimpy face route that may be the one Tim is on if there isn't another crimpy face to the left.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jan 31, 2011

Awesome Thanks Mark!

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