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North Peak - West Face
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Bell , The T 
Bray No More T,S 
Bray To The Lord T 
Circumflex T 
Hooked on a Feeling T 
Inherent Contradictions T 
Kauffman's Rib T 
Madmen Only T 
Malevolence T 
Mistaken Identity T 
Negative Feedback T 
No Dally Alley T 
Northway T 
One Stop T 
Pine Tree Traverse T 
Princess Snowbird T 
Psycho Killer T 
Psycho Warfare T 
Silent But Deadly T 
Snickers T 
That's Reality T 
Thunderbolts T 
Up Front T 
West Face to Gunsight Notch T 
Unsorted Routes:

Madmen Only 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Livingstone & Craig - 1966
Page Views: 3,617
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Madmen only. Photo: Jon St. John


Madmen Only ascends the obvious steep crack in a right-facing corner formed by a giant flake at the right side of the Bell Wall. Finally a Seneca route with big, solid gear and burly moves! Ascend this crack until a cruxy move that steps right and continues to a bolted anchor.


Standard rack.

Photos of Madmen Only Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emil near the top.
Emil near the top.

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By cshuey77 shuey
From: Asheviile,nc
May 27, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

top crux may be easier if your taller than 6'
By Gina Hoag
Aug 21, 2011

Intial move off deck (a huge block) to first piece of gear is scary, reachy, and polished for the vertically challenged. The remainder of the climb has no reach issues and has fantastic gear! Very enjoyable and exciting lead!
By P. Sully
Feb 17, 2013

this is a bad ass route
By Matt Desenberg
From: North Berwick, ME
Sep 28, 2013

If I remember right, you can get a brass nut or two off the deck to protect the initial boulder problem.
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
May 11, 2016

Exciting and unique climb. Start holds are all there but not protectable. Start from the block and traverse left. Wild step moves to the right wall near top and hole through the wall.

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