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3. Madigan Area
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Brown School T 
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Madigan S 
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Madigan 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 300
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 26, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Madigan, first pitch

Description 

This is climb#5 in the "guide-pamphlet". Although listed as a "sport" climb, there are gear placements.

A lovely 2 pitch climb with bolted anchors. Start on the clean face directly behind the broken tree.

P1 - Six bolts to an anchor. I'd say the crux is up around bolt #5 or so. Maybe I missed the easiest way, but thought it closer to 5.7 than 5.6.

P2 - After some thin climbing directly above the belay, up and left-ish following 5 bolts to a double bolt anchor.

Descent - Rap the route.

Protection 

Draws, optional gear is mostly small & medium cams


Photos of Madigan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Landmark" broken tree just below the ba...
BETA PHOTO: "Landmark" broken tree just below the ba...
Rock Climbing Photo: Madigan, second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Madigan, second pitch.

Comments on Madigan Add Comment
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By Ron Birk
From: Boston, MA
Jul 28, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought this route was a grade or two harder than 5.6. Thin and tricky at spots, especially on the first pitch. Double ropes will just about get you down in one rappel.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
Jul 29, 2016

I agree. I put it in as 5.6 since the guide (and thus the FA-er's?) listed it as that, but (personally) felt it was 5.6+ to easy 5.7.

Of course, on slab like this you can miss one crimper, or one foothold, and what is 5.5 with the hold becomes 5.7 without it.

MtnPrjct is now set up to take into consideration the "suggested ratings" posted by other climber's when they "tick" it off, if enough folk think it 5.7 the "official" rating will change.