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3. Madigan Area
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YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Sport, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 464
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jul 26, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: Madigan, first pitch


This is climb#5 in the "guide-pamphlet". Although listed as a "sport" climb, there are gear placements.

A lovely 2 pitch climb with bolted anchors. Start on the clean face directly behind the broken tree.

P1 - Six bolts to an anchor. I'd say the crux is up around bolt #5 or so. Maybe I missed the easiest way, but thought it closer to 5.7 than 5.6.

P2 - After some thin climbing directly above the belay, up and left-ish following 5 bolts to a double bolt anchor.

Descent - Rap the route.


Draws, optional gear is mostly small & medium cams

Photos of Madigan Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Landmark" broken tree just below the ba...
BETA PHOTO: "Landmark" broken tree just below the ba...
Rock Climbing Photo: Madigan, second pitch.
BETA PHOTO: Madigan, second pitch.

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By Ron Birk
From: Boston, MA
Jul 28, 2016
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought this route was a grade or two harder than 5.6. Thin and tricky at spots, especially on the first pitch. Double ropes will just about get you down in one rappel.
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 29, 2016

I agree. I put it in as 5.6 since the guide (and thus the FA-er's?) listed it as that, but (personally) felt it was 5.6+ to easy 5.7.

Of course, on slab like this you can miss one crimper, or one foothold, and what is 5.5 with the hold becomes 5.7 without it.

MtnPrjct is now set up to take into consideration the "suggested ratings" posted by other climber's when they "tick" it off, if enough folk think it 5.7 the "official" rating will change.
By Tom Sawyer
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 7, 2017

I led this fine climb after doing Lichen It and feel it is a bit more challenging - maybe a 5.6+ or 5.7-. This was my 2nd lead on the climb. Instead of starting on the ledge to the left and below the 1st bolt, which I did the first time, I started from directly below the bolt. A bit more risky because of a potential ground fall (especially for this climber who is in his 70's). I did manage to get a very small cam in shortly after leaving the ground but did not feel it was bomb-proof. May try a small nut next time. Still a very enjoyable climb.

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