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Made to Order S 

Made to Order 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jim Davis, Steve Pollard-Cuddy April 2012
Season: Good shady wall
Page Views: 199
Submitted By: Jim Davis on Jan 25, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for "Made to Order"

Description 

Start at the left bottom corner of formation off the boulder. Consider clipping the 1st bolt from the ground so you don't end up in the abyss. Climb past 7 more bolts on good (if slightly mossy) rock. This route should clean up nicely with a few repeats. The upper section eases up on difficultly on patina plates on the way to a 2 bolt anchor at top.

Location 

Follow trail from Meatloaf cave to climb at lower left of formation

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor


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By BAd
Sep 18, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

REALLY loved this route. Seemed pretty reasonable with nothing to our experience clocking in at 10a or above. Great little edges and fun! Do it.

We did another route to the left up the lichen covered cracks which we thought was the other route, but no! Seemed solid 10 but not 10+. Anyone know what it is? We skipped the weird anchors on top in the middle of the slightly overhanging block. It didn't look too hard to get to, but setting up for the lower would be a chore! Ugh. Still fun route but a little chossy/licheny. Probably won't repeat it, but I will be back for the right-most route. Good stuff, Jim. Thanks!

BAd