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Carbuncle Buttress
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Made to be Broken 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]
FA: Joe French, 2003
Season: All (if you can handle the heat
Page Views: 6,211
Submitted By: Gaar on May 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Pitch 4

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Look directly at the lodge....Look up....See the buttress with the diving board on the top?!...Take one of the many trails up to the base of the butress(15min uphill) and climb the middle of the face. Follow the bolts

Protection 

10-12 draws and one 70m rope....A 60m rope will work but is cutting it CLOSE


Photos of Made to be Broken Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mark Ferguson on the sharp end.
Mark Ferguson on the sharp end.
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit View
Summit View
Rock Climbing Photo: The third pitch of Made to be Broken.
The third pitch of Made to be Broken.
Rock Climbing Photo: The second pitch of Made to be Broken.
The second pitch of Made to be Broken.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
Rock Climbing Photo: The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
The first pitch of Made to be Broken.
Rock Climbing Photo: Made to be Broken starts in the center of the Carb...
BETA PHOTO: Made to be Broken starts in the center of the Carb...

Comments on Made to be Broken Add Comment
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By Brendan N. (grayhghost)
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 8, 2008

PleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePleasePlease

Bring 10 steel rap-rings and a wrench for the belays. As of 12/05/08 the belays were bolts with single quicklinks, causing serious rope twisting when pulling the ropes on the rappels. This could be bad if your only rope gets stuck simply because it spun around itself a million times.

You could use 4 slings to cut down on rope drag.

This route is pretty spooky, I would recommend being a solid 5.11 sport leader before hopping on this.

Cool summit.
By Austin Baird
From: SLC, Utah
May 1, 2010

What makes this a PG-13?
By Alec
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The name says it all. Take the typical Zion free climbing experience and apply it to sport climbing. This isn't your typical sport route, there are 10+ foot runouts (exciting but not unreasonable) on sharp slabby stone with often suspect holds. We didn't break anything but were pretty cautious about what we pulled/stepped on.

The rap stations are in good shape, with new bolts and redundant chain/links. Be careful if you do double raps as the route wanders a bit and may require a bunch of swinging around to get to the next station.

The climbing tends to get easier and the rock poorer the higher you get. It's solid 5.10+ with perhaps a couple harder short bouldery cruxes. The crux may be the first few moves.

This is an excellent route with a nice variety of steep pulling, technical face climbing and challenging slabs. Kudos to the first ascent party for all their work!
By paulmadry
Oct 24, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I think there is nothing pg13 about this route. Maybe feels pg at the beginning of second pitch (only if you worry that sandstone bolts are iffy, because you are above first bolt). Fun route to take your mind of protection in Zion.
By stevecurtis
From: Petaluma California
Mar 10, 2012

I found the route challenging for 10+. Furthermore, there are runouts, and at least one spot where one must make crux moves before clipping the bolt, over a small ledge.

A rope solo. I'd give it a PG13.
By Joe Stern
From: Moab, Utah
Apr 1, 2013
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

As others have noted, there are a couple cruxes that felt kind of stout for the guidebook rating of 10+. I'll go with 11-, but I also wouldn't argue with anyone who said there were a few mid-11 moves. Then again, maybe I didn't find the best way. It's not like there's chalk all over this thing.

Regarding the safety rating, I'm in the not-PG13 camp. Nothing dangerous here, just don't expect a bolt at your waist for every single 5.10 move.

Rappelled with a single 60m no problem. We simul-rappelled, so maybe we had a bit of extra stretch, but I don't remember anything even close to the ends.

Fun climbing with a pretty mellow approach and a unique route for Zion. Felt kind of like a Red Rocks multi-pitch sport route but with a distinctly Zion flavor. Double roofs/bulges on P3 were my favorite part.

By drock3
Nov 12, 2013

Super fun route. Went out expecting a nice relaxed day of sport climbing. The route was a bit more taxing than expected. Still a great day.

In regards to the PG13. I'm on the fence. I don't think it's PG13 because of bolt spacing in general, but pitches 2 and 3 involved pulling pretty hard moves right off the anchors. This resulted in having this "holy shit don't FF2" feeling for a bit. In reality the 1st bolt of the pitches weren't far up so a FF2 wasn't a real concern. The fall in between the 1st and 2nd bolts would not be much more pleasant however. It just created a tense feeling for climber and belayer for the first 15 feet of each pitch. The rest of the climbing was perfectly protected.

In regards to the grade. I think anywhere else this would be 10+ without much discussion. I think the reason it feels harder is because of the rock quality. Everything feels like it's going to break. All of the slabby feet feel like sand (because well, they are!), so you never feel comfy. I don't think the grade should change, but going into it expecting to have 400ft of legit climbing.

70M rope made for super comfy raps. took no more than 15 min to get down.
By Michael Dom
Dec 22, 2015
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The third pitch was amazing. I didn't really think this route was all that runout. The traverse on the first pitch definitely made me think about what I was doing however. Bring a few long slings for when you start traversing. My second was too short for some of the first moves on the first pitch but she clocks in at 5'4.

As for the approach, you will be coming in from the right side. Watch out for cacti.
By Nate Young
From: Phoenix
Oct 24, 2016

Did only the first pitch of this route because one waning daylight. I was skeptical of the PG-13 rating for this climb, especially at the 4th bolt where I look up and the only bolt I see is 25 feet to the left at a 45 degree angle. I was about to come down but thought there is no way there would be this large a gap between bolts, it's just not safe. So I ventured up on good holds for 10 feet or so when I spotted the real 5th bolt, hidden behind some sandstone plates. So if you get to the 4th bolt and are feeling skeptical about the run-out, just start heading for that bolt WAY OUT THERE and you'll run smack into another bolt that will save your bacon. Also, make sure you bring some slings, the route does wonder a little ways in some places. I would agree it's a solid 10+ climb if you are used to areas that are rated a little soft. Many places I've climbed, this would be an 11a-b route for sure due to some tricky pinches and whatnot to stick cruxes. I did the first pitch with a partner in less than 45 minutes, so this whole route could be completed in about 3 hours (Including raps) if you are comfy at the grade and have your lead swaps down pretty good. All-in-all I liked the bolt spacing and though the holds were very unique.